Friday, December 30, 2022

Happy New Year! Anna Sultana's Cotechino with Lentils, Lentil Soup, Baked Frittata / Cornbread with Sausage, Hoppin' John / Christmases Past by Margaret Ullrich

Wishing you all the blessings of the season
and a New Year filled with all the best!
Thank you for visiting
hope to see you again in the new year!
~ Margaret



We’ve made it through 2022!!!

That alone gives us a reason to celebrate.
We’re not totally done with Covid-19, so please stay safe and take precautions.
Maybe a bit of menu planning will give us some more luck as we enter 2023.


Southerners have a saying Peas for pennies, greens for dollars, and cornbread for gold.
Other foods that are supposed to bring you good luck, wealth and health are:

Pork - pigs move forward when they eat and represent wealth and progress in Europe.

Lentils - Italians eat golden lentils on New Year’s Eve to boost their fortunes.

Tomatoes - Italians believe tomatoes bring good health.

Sauerkraut - Germans and Eastern Europeans eat a heaping plate of sauerkraut for wealth.

Grapes - Spaniards eat a grape at each stroke of midnight, with each representing a month in the new year. If one grape is bitter, watch out for that month!

Ring-shaped cakes - are a symbol of coming full circle.
 
Fish - scales resemble coins, and fish swim forward in schools, representing power and progress. 

Pomegranate - Greek families toss a pomegranate against their front door when the clock strikes midnight. The more seeds the more luck you’ll have. Put your pomegranate in a plastic bag to avoid a mess.

Mandarin oranges - bring prosperity. Having one with the stem and leaf attached will bring a long life and fertility.


Back to American Southerners and Hoppin John…
Hoppin’ John is traditionally eaten on New Year’s Day to bring luck. In 1847 it was mentioned in The Carolina Housewife. It is made with black-eyed peas, rice and pork, and is often served with collard greens and cornbread.

Make extra. If you have leftovers it implies that you are frugal and promises greater prosperity. Sometimes a dime is inserted in the dish before serving. It is said that wealth awaits the diner who gets the dime.
Eating all but three of the black-eyed peas on your plate promises luck, wealth, and romance.


Hints:

Cotechino is an Italian pork sausage seasoned with clove and nutmeg. It has a mild flavour.
If you can’t find it in your local store, a pork loin roast seasoned with clove and nutmeg and roasted would do nicely. Adjust cooking time so that the meat is cooked thoroughly.

Lentil to liquid ratios varies depending on brand so follow the directions on the package.



About the Cornbread with Sausage…
If you don’t have any stale bread, just cut slices into 1 inch pieces, put pieces on a baking tray, cover with a paper towel and let the bread sit on the counter for a few days.

About the Hoppin' John…
If you want a meatier Hoppin' John you can add cubed ham or 2 or 3 chopped pork chops.

If you want more vegetables add chopped green bell pepper or carrots and a can of tomatoes.

You can cook the rice separately, then place it on a large platter and spoon the cooked black-eyed peas over the rice.

                        Cotechino with Lentils

Serves 4

Chop
1 onion
1 celery stalk

Poke with a fork
1 pound Cotechino
Place it in a large pot and cover the meat with cold water.
Add
the chopped vegetables
3 bay leaves
Over high heat bring to a boil, then lower heat to simmer for 45 minutes.
Remove the Cotechino and let it cool.
Slice in 1/2 inch thick slices and place on top of the lentils.

While the pork is cooking dice
1 large onion
1 carrot
1 stalk celery
1 clove garlic

Place in a large pot
2 Tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
Place pot over medium heat.
When hot add the vegetables and garlic and lower heat to medium.
Cook until lightly browned.
Add
4 Cups water or chicken broth or beef broth
Stir in
2 Cups dry lentils, washed
Bring to a boil, lower heat to simmer and cook, stirring occasionally, until lentils are tender.
Remove from heat and stir in
1 Tablespoon dried parsley
Salt and pepper to taste
Lentils should not be too dry or too soupy.



                        Lentil Soup

Serves  6 to 10

Chop
1 medium red onion
2 celery stalks
2 carrots
4 cloves garlic

Put in a deep pot
1 pound dry lentils, washed
Add
the chopped vegetables and garlic
4 bay leaves
1 Tablespoon rosemary
Salt and pepper to taste
Cover the pot, let come to a boil and let boil for 10 minutes.
Lower heat, uncover the pot and simmer.
While the lentils are simmering boil 4 Cups water in a medium pot. Add it to the lentils if they are too dry.
Stop cooking the lentils when they reach your desired tenderness.
Taste the lentils and salt and pepper to taste.
Serve with a drizzle of extra virgin olive oil.



                        Baked Frittata

Grease an 8 inch square baking pan

Slice
5 medium red potatoes

Chop
1 onion (enough for 1 Cup)
1 green pepper (enough for 1/4 Cup)

Place in a medium bowl
12 large eggs
3⁄4 Cup Parmesan cheese, grated
1⁄2 Cup water
1 teaspoon dried basil
1⁄2 teaspoon salt
1⁄2 teaspoon black pepper
Beat until blended.

Place in a large skillet
1⁄4 Cup olive oil

Add the potato slices and sauté for 10 minutes. Add
the chopped onion and green pepper
1 teaspoon garlic powder

Sauté until tender, then add
4 Cups chopped broccoli, frozen or fresh

Cover and cook 5 minutes.
Arrange the vegetable mixture in the prepared pan.
Pour the egg mixture over the vegetables.
Sprinkle over the eggs / vegetable mixture
1 1⁄2 cups Mozzarella cheese, shredded 

Bake, uncovered, at 350º F for 35 to 40 minutes or until set.

                        Cornbread with Sausage

Grease an 9 x 13 inch baking pan

Crumble into a large bowl
3 Cups stale cornbread
3 Cups stale white bread

Chop
2 onions
3 celery stalks
1 cored, peeled apple
2 cloves garlic

Place in a large pot
1/2 pound butter
Melt over medium heat and add
1/2 pound sausage meat
the chopped vegetables
Add
the chopped apple and the garlic
1 Tablespoon dried parsley
1 bay leaf, crumbled
1 teaspoon thyme
1 teaspoon sage
Stir to blend well, salt and black pepper to taste, and pour into the prepared pan.
Bake at 350° F for 40 to 45 minutes or until golden brown on top.


                        Hoppin' John

6 servings

Chop
1 onion

Place in a large pot
1 1/2 Cups dry black-eyed peas
1 pound ham hocks

the chopped onion
1/2 teaspoon crushed red pepper flakes
1 teaspoon garlic powder
salt and pepper to taste


Cover with
4 Cups water or chicken broth

Bring to a boil, reduce heat to medium low and cook for 1 1/2 hours.
Remove ham hocks.
Cut the meat into pieces and return the meat to pot.
Stir in
1 1/2 Cups long grain white rice

Cover and cook until rice is tender, about 20 to 25 minutes.
Season to taste with salt and pepper.
Sprinkle over top
1 Cup Cheddar cheese, shredded (optional)
Serve with cornbread or Cornbread with Sausage.
 

                                                            ~~~
This was a holiday piece I wrote a few years ago for the CKUW radio show ‘2000 & Counting’ when we decided to chat about past Christmases… both good and bad.

I wish you all a very happy holiday season full of peace, health, joy and love.
And, of course, favourite foods.
Let's not forget television specials and Christmas music.

For those who don't know the story, the Christmas carol Silent Night was written in the nineteenth century because of a problem.      
In a small Austrian church the organ was broken and couldn't be repaired in time for the Christmas Eve Mass. So, in a couple of hours, Joseph Mohr and Franz Gruber created a simple song that could be played on the guitar.
It was called the song from heaven.
      
On Christmas Eve in 1914, the German soldiers singing Silent Night brought a touch of humanity to World War l. The British soldiers responded with another carol, The First Noel. For a few hours, peace returned, thanks to music.


The first year I was on the CKUW radio show 2000 & Counting, Older and Wiser I prerecorded our two holiday shows. That year the holidays occurred on Tuesday, the day we usually broadcasted, and we wanted to be home.
I taped each person telling a story and their favourite Christmas carol recording.
The segments filled the two hours easily.

Normally we did our shows live and, as our listeners knew, we did make mistakes. 
With prerecording, we were able to edit them. We sounded pretty good.

      
Maybe that's the problem with modern life.
We hear recordings and see shows that have had dozens of retakes.
Sometimes they show the bloopers.
It's pretty funny to see that even big stars make mistakes.
But, most of the time, all we only see a smoothly running show where everyone always says the right thing, the dinner is cooked to perfection and all problems are resolved with everybody hugging each other within a half an hour.

It can leave one feeling like he's been cheated or that he should try harder.


The first Christmas was a stinker.  Being in a big city with no available rooms is not fun. Add to that Mary was about to have her first baby in a barn with just a carpenter there to help.
I don't think any Christmas has ever gone according to plan.
And maybe Christmas just isn't supposed to be perfect.


A first Christmas away from all that's familiar can be rough.
Our first married Christmas was a big change.
Paul and I are originally from New York City.  Tons of people.
I came from a huge family - a first generation immigrant family.
My parents and their siblings couldn't get enough of each other.     
But, there we were in 1972, all alone in Surrey, British Columbia.
The two of us in a basement apartment watching Perry Como's Christmas Special.
It was something from home for us.
This was in the days before Skype. We hadn't seen our relatives for six months.    
When we watched Perry Como, it was good to know our folks were watching it, too.
For an hour, we were all together.
Then we went to bed for a long winter's nap.
     
The next morning we awoke hearing our puppy happily yelping and splashing in water.
No, he wasn't in a basin or a tub.
     
Surrey in those days was very rural. There were open drainage ditches running along the lengths of the residential blocks. The ditch in front of our house had gotten plugged. The rain had soaked our lawn and was seeping through three walls of our apartment. We were rapidly being flooded.

We piled things onto our bed.
The folks upstairs helped us carry everything else into their apartment.
Within a half hour water covered about two feet of our first Christmas tree.
We were safe and dry upstairs, sharing a cup of coffee.
Then we heard our phone ringing.
My folks had said they would call on Christmas Day.
If we didn't answer the phone, they would worry.
This was in the days before cell phones.
Our only phone was on the table in our apartment.
Our flooded apartment.

We braved the icy water and the risk of electrocution to answer the phone.
We wished my folks a Merry Christmas.
Keeping our teeth from chattering, we made small talk.
No mention of of our apartment suddenly becoming a wading pool.
What would've been the point of worrying them?


Living in British Columbia is just a memory.   
Perry Como's Christmas Specials are just a memory.
My parents, also, are just a memory.
But thanks to memories, we can enjoy a Christmas from the past.


During the holidays people often feel a bit down.
If this is your first Christmas after a major loss or change, be gentle with yourself.
Forget the rules. Do what will make it easier for you.

It won't be perfect.
So what?
It will be real… another Christmas memory.

Sunday, December 25, 2022

Merry Christmas! Christmas Cookie Cake & Cannoli Cake (Cake Mix) / Anna Sultana's Pound Cake & Cannoli Pound Cake / A Big Kid’s Christmas by Margaret Ullrich

                             Happy Holidays, everyone.
                               Wishing you and yours
                a Christmas filled with all you hold dear!
                             Thank you for visiting ~
                                       Margaret




Well, the big day has come!
We’ve made it!
Hope you are having a lovely day, filled with everything you wished for.

You’ve earned it… all that baking, ready for everyone to eat.
Soon it’ll all be gone.
No problem. There’s always something new for you to bake.


Hints:

About the Pound Cake…
You can line a greased loaf pan with parchment paper leaving about a 2 inch overhang on the sides so that you can remove it easily.

Instead of the orange or lemon extract you can use 2 Tablespoons of vanilla or any citrus juice in the cake.

You can use 1 Tablespoon each of your favourite three from the following: orange, lemon, lime and grapefruit zest, finely grated, instead of 3 Tablespoons of one type of zest.
Or you can use half and half, or two to one. Your choice. It’s your cake.

While you’ve got the grater out it wouldn’t hurt to grate a bit extra. You can wrap zest in plastic wrap or aluminum, then place in a container and freeze up to a month.

About the Cannoli Pound Cake…
Instead of the chocolate topping you can top the cake with a Simple Syrup:
Place in a small pot
3 Tablespoons water
Heat until hot.
Add
1/4 Cup sugar
Stir to dissolve.
Stir in
1  Tablespoon lime juice *
1  Tablespoon lime zest, finely grated *
Allow simple syrup to cool to room temperature.
Brush over the completely cooled cake.
Let the syrup soak into the cake at least 15 minutes before serving.

* Instead of lime juice and zest, you can use orange, lemon or grapefruit.

If you’re in a rush, or prefer a dusting of confectioners’ sugar, that works, too.
It’s your cake.

                        Christmas Cookie Cake

Grease well a 9 inch springform pan
Heat oven to 325º F

Place in a large mixer bowl
1 box French vanilla cake mix
15 ounces ricotta cheese
3/4 Cup heavy cream
1/2 Cup olive oil
4 large eggs
1 teaspoons almond extract
Beat until smooth.
Pour batter into prepared pan.
Bake for 1 hour, or until a toothpick inserted into the centre comes out clean.
Cool completely.
Run a knife around, between the cake and the cake pan, to loosen the cake.
Place the cake on a serving platter.

Place in a small bowl
1/2 cup heavy cream
4 Cups sifted confectioners’ sugar
1 teaspoon vanilla
Beat together, then drizzle over cake.
Sprinkle with multi-coloured sprinkles.
Allow frosting to set 1 hour before slicing and serving.

                        Cannoli Cake

Grease and flour two 9 inch round cake pans

Prepare and bake according to package directions
1 box French vanilla cake mix
A toothpick inserted into the centre should come out clean.
Cool for 10 minutes.
Run a knife around, between the cake and the cake pan, to loosen the cake before removing from pans to wire racks to cool completely.

For filling
Place in a large mixer bowl
16 ounces ricotta cheese
1/2 Cup confectioners’ sugar, sifted 
2 teaspoons cinnamon
1 teaspoon almond extract
1 teaspoon rum extract
1 teaspoon vanilla
Beat until blended.
Stir in
2 ounces semisweet chocolate, finely chopped or miniature chips

For frosting
Place in a clean large mixer bowl
16 ounces Mascarpone cheese
3/4 Cup confectioners' sugar, sifted
1/4 Cup whole milk
2 teaspoons almond extract
1 teaspoon vanilla
Beat on medium speed until creamy. Do not over mix.

Place one cake layer on a serving plate.
Spread with 3/4 of filling.
Top with second cake layer.
Spread remaining filling over top of cake to within 1 inch of edges.
Spread frosting on sides and top, covering the area within 1 inch of edges.
Press into sides of cake
1 Cup sliced almonds
Sprinkle over the seam where the frosting and filling meet on the top
4 Tablespoons miniature semisweet chocolate chips
Refrigerate until serving.


                        Pound Cake

Heavily grease and flour a 9 x 5 inch loaf pan

Sift together into a medium bowl
1 3/4 Cup + 1 Tablespoon flour
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/4 teaspoon baking powder
1/4 teaspoon baking soda
Set aside.

Combine in a small bowl
1/4 Cup sour cream or plain yogurt
1 teaspoon orange or lemon extract
3 Tablespoons zest, finely grated
Set aside.

Place in a large mixer bowl
1 Cup butter
1 Cup + 2 Tablespoons sugar
Beat until light and fluffy, about 5 minutes.

Add, one at a time, beating well after each addition
4 large eggs

Preheat oven to 350º F

Add half of the dry ingredients into the large mixer bowl.
Blend on low speed until just combined.
Add the sour cream mixture and mix until well blended.
Add the remaining dry ingredients and blend just enough to combine.
Pour the batter into the prepared pan.
Place into the preheated oven and bake for 70 to 75 minutes.
A toothpick inserted into the centre should come out clean.

Remove from oven and allow the loaf to cool in the pan for 10 minutes.
Run a knife around, between the cake and the cake pan, to loosen the cake.
Remove the cake from the pan and place on a wire rack to cool completely.
When cooled, place the cake on a serving platter.

                        Cannoli Pound Cake

Chop finely
8 ounces semi-sweet chocolate

Cut horizontally into 4 slices
1 prepared pound cake

Place in in medium mixer bowl
1 package (4-serving size) vanilla instant pudding 

1 Cup cold milk 

1/2 teaspoon orange extract or orange juice
Beat 2 minutes.
Stir in
1/2 Cup ricotta cheese
1/4 Cup chopped chocolate
Fold in
1 1/2 Cups frozen whipped topping, thawed

Place bottom cake slice on serving plate.
Spread 1/3 of the pudding mixture over the layer.
Place a layer of cake on top and spread the pudding mixture over it two more times.
Top with remaining cake slice.

Place in a small pot
the remaining chocolate

1 Tablespoon butter
Place the pot over low heat and cook, stirring constantly, until butter and chocolate are melted and mixture is blended.
Spread on top of cake and allow to drip down sides.
Refrigerate until serving.                              


                                                            ~~~
In 2004 I wrote a story about when I was 5-years-old and worried if Santa Claus would find me after we moved. I read it on our CKUW radio show '2000 & Counting - Older & Wiser'. For a few years it was an annual tradition for ‘2000 & Counting’ and for ‘Better Than Chocolate’.
After I had first read the story we chatted about when we were children and had realized that our parents were Santa’s main helpers. Here is what I remember of that discussion. Merry Christmas!


So, Santa did find me and my nine-month-old sister.

My fifth Christmas was a time of change for our family. I was becoming American. Thank you, Nonni.

Christmases marked the milestones in my family’s changes. The next Christmas, in addition to a sister, I had a 15-day-old brother. Well, it was the 1950s.

That was a huge Christmas for our family. Santa was in a very generous mood that year. Pop was in his glory. He finally had a son, an heir. Pop's dynasty could begin. He was one up on England’s Prince Philip. We had his family's name. Visions of grandsons were dancing in Pop's head. And there'd be hundreds of descendants to come. He'd be another Abraham. In the 1950s all things were possible.

Another thing that was possible was my learning how to read and write. The next year I was able to write my own letter to Santa. I wanted a bicycle. I asked my parents if they thought Santa would give me a bike. Pop said that I'd been a good girl, helping Ma with the two babies. Ma agreed, saying that I was becoming really good at changing diapers and giving bottles. Yes, they thought Santa would grant me my wish.
 
My siblings were also growing and going after what they wanted. While George had barely been aware of his first Christmas, that year he was a toddler and was fascinated by the Christmas tree. He kept trying to grab the ornaments. Every chance he got, he'd climb onto the sofa and reach out to the branches.

We weren't worried. He just sat on the couch and reached.  

Then George figured out that he'd get closer to the tree if he got on the armrest and then reached for a shiny ball or two. I think he'd have done it, if he hadn't lost his balance and landed on the three kings' camel. That camel wasn't exactly built to carry a toddler. No problem. There were more camels in the 5 & 10.


The big day came.  
I got my bike.
It was blue.
I called it Blue Bird.

I was so glad that I had learned how to write and read. I read anything and everything I could, including the labels on Blue Bird. The seat had been made in one country. The tires in another. The frame in yet a third.  

Suddenly, I had an awful thought.  
The parts of my Blue Bird had been made in different countries.  
Not one label said made in the North Pole.
Nothing had been made in the North Pole.
Nothing had been made by Santa's elves.   

My parents looked at each other, shrugged, and finally admitted that, yes, my bike hadn't been made by Santa's elves. They had bought it. Didn't I like it? Was blue still my favourite colour?
I admitted it was perfect. But what about Santa? Didn’t he like me any more?

They smiled, hugged me and said I was a big girl. I was too big to still believe in Santa. But, since I was a big girl, it was now my job to help the babies believe in Santa for as long as possible.

I was seven… the oldest… not a baby anymore.

In a way I was proud when they called me a big girl.
But I was also scared.
I wasn’t ready to be a big girl.
I felt like I was George reaching for the shiny balls.
I was afraid I would lose my balance and fall on the camel.

Tuesday, December 20, 2022

Anna Sultana's Zuppa Inglese and Zabaione with Berries / Would Santa Ever Find Me? by Margaret Ullrich

 

Five days until Christmas!
We’ve had over a month of baking - and eating - platters of traditional breads, cakes, cookies and pies.
Time to enjoy something a little less starchy.
A bit of alcohol would be a good idea, too.


The name of the Neopolitan Trifle, Zuppa Inglese, translates into 'English Soup'.
The original recipe called for Alchermes, an Italian liqueur. It was prepared by infusing spirits with sugar, cinnamon, cloves, nutmeg, herbs, vanilla, and other flavouring agents. Its scarlet colour came from the addition of cochineal.

Some say the name is a little joke to tease the English about their love of rum.
It was first served to Lord Nelson and Lady Hamilton in the 18th century and there was so much rum in it that it had to be eaten with a soup spoon.
It’s a good idea to eat it with a spoon in the twenty-first century, too.


Zabaione
is an Italian dessert made with eggs, sugar and Marsala wine.
It was invented in the 16th Century in the Medici court in Florence, Italy. It is classified as a sauce, and was used to fill pies and tarts. It is not a custard because it does not have milk or cream in it.
It is usually served warm, though it can be served cold, as a sauce, or even frozen.

Hints:

About the Zabaione with Berries…
You can substitute any other sweet wines that you prefer, or have on hand. Try sherry, port, Madeira, Moscato d'Asti, or Grand Marnier.
If you prefer your Zabaione sweeter you can add more sugar, a tablespoonful at a time.

The bottom of the bowl should not touch the water.
Zabaione needs constant whisking, so that it doesn't overcook or curdle.

Whipped cream can be added to the cooled Zabaione and gently folded together.

It can be served with fruit, such as canned or baked peaches, or between cake layers, or on chocolate pudding, or to fill cream puffs.




                        Zuppa Inglese

Combine in a small bowl
2 1/2 ounces cocoa
1 1/2 ounces sugar

Place in a small pot
1 ounce milk
Heat to boiling, then remove from heat and slowly add
the cocoa / sugar mixture
Blend together and let cool.

Peel the zest from
1 lemon

Combine in a medium pot
3 Cups lukewarm milk
1 teaspoon vanilla

Place in a large pot
5 large egg yolks
5 ounces sugar
Beat together until well blended and slowly add
3 1/2 ounces flour
Add
the lemon peel
the milk / vanilla mixture
Put the pan on the stove and cook over medium heat.
Stir continuously until the ingredients reach the boiling point.
Reduce heat and cook, stirring constantly, for 5 minutes.
Remove the pot from the stove and let it cool.
Stir occasionally and remove the lemon peel. Let cool.

Have on hand
7 ounces lady fingers, approximately
1 Cup rum
1 Cup maraschino

Dip a lady finger on one side in rum and the other in maraschino and place in a deep glass flat-bottomed bowl.
Repeat with enough lady fingers to make a layer on the bottom of the bowl.
Add a layer of chocolate and a layer of the sugar / egg mixture.
Repeat the layering process.
Garnish the top with whipped cream and shaved chocolate.


                        Zabaione with Berries

Place in a bowl that fits in a double boiler
6 large egg yolks
1/3 Cup sugar
Add
1 teaspoon finely grated lemon zest (optional)
1/8 teaspoon vanilla
3/4 Cup Marsala



Fill the pot of a double boiler halfway with water.
Over medium heat bring the water to a simmer.
Reduce the heat to maintain a gentle simmer.
Set the bowl containing the custard mixture over the water. 


Whisk the mixture for 10 to 15 minutes, until the mixture triples in volume and becomes pale. 
Longer cooking will thicken the Zabaione, giving it the texture of a mousse. When it reaches the desired consistency, take the container out of the pot of water.
Pour it into a serving bowl and serve warm.

If you want to serve it cool, set it aside for about 15 minutes.
Ladle the Zabaione into individual dishes and serve with whipped cream, berries, and / or cookies, such as biscotti.


                                                            ~~~
In 2004 I wrote this story and read it on our CKUW radio show '2000 & Counting - Older & Wiser'. For a few years it was an annual tradition for ‘2000 & Counting’ and for ‘Better Than Chocolate’. I got a few e mails asking if I could post the original story.
Here it is… Merry Christmas!


Change follows us from the cradle to the grave. When I was five years old I was hit with a megadose of change - I moved to another town, got a baby sister, got to go to kindergarten and got Santa Claus.
    
Five years earlier my parents and I had emigrated from Malta to New York and settled in Corona. We didn't have much choice. Five of Pop's brothers and sisters lived in Corona. So, we had to live in Corona, too. 
    
Corona was a little slice of Italy on Long Island. The store clerks were bilingual: English and Italian. The grocery stores in Corona were stocked with Italian necessities. Almost everything in all the other stores had been imported from Italy. 
Corona was where we learned how to be Americans. 
    
Nonni's children, Betty and Angelo, had married two of Pop's siblings, Joe and Helen. So, Nonni was a double Grandma in my family. Since all my grandparents were in Malta, Nonni treated me as a grandchild, too.     
    
Every Christmas Eve we gathered at Uncle Joe and Aunt Betty's home. A whole corner of their living room was filled with Nonni's manger scene. It was not just a shed with Mary, Joseph, three kings and one shepherd standing around Baby Jesus. Nonni had a complete village with houses, trees, hills, paths, ponds and animals. There were people walking around just minding their own business. Some of the figures were really old and we couldn't play with them. But each year Nonni added something new: a woman carrying a basket of eggs, a farmer carrying a head of cabbage, a man carrying a bundle of wood. Nonni’s manger scene was better than any store window on 5th Avenue in Manhattan.
    
Dinner was a feast. Fish was traditional - eel for the parents, bluefish for the children. There was also soup, pasta and vegetables, followed by ricotta pie, anise biscotti, pizzelle and cuccidati cookies, strufoli, creamy roasted chestnuts and torrone candy. My favourite was the huge golden mound of strufoli: tiny doughnut balls covered with honey and multi-coloured sprinkles. After dinner we played games and our parents talked until it was time to walk to the Midnight Mass at St. Leo's. After Mass we returned to Uncle Joe's for some panettone, a holiday bread made with butter, raisins, almonds and citron.

Then Nonni would tell us to look at the manger scene for the surprise. The blessed Bambino, Baby Jesus, had suddenly appeared!
    
Christmas Eve was a wonderful night. But the big day for us children was January sixth. The night before we had hung our stockings and waited for La Befana to bring us toys. 
    

For those unfamiliar with the story, La Befana was a little old lady who had been sweeping her house when the Wise Men knocked on her door. They were looking for Baby Jesus and asked La Befana for directions. They then invited La Befana to join them. The old woman refused, saying she had work to do.
    
When it was dark, a great light and angels appeared in the sky. La Befana realized that the Wise Men weren't kidding about somebody special being born that night. Broom in hand, La Befana tried to catch up with the Wise Men. She never found them or Baby Jesus. Every year she searches for Baby Jesus and leaves presents for good little boys and girls. 
    

La Befana took care of me for four years. Then we moved to College Point so we could live closer to Lily Tulip where Pop worked. Then it was time for my sister to be born. While Ma was in the hospital I stayed with Aunt Betty, Uncle Joe and their daughters, MaryAnn and Carol Lynn. It was nice living in Corona again. The next day, Nonni diNoto took me to the local 5 and 10 and gave me a quarter.      
"Buy for sister."       
I didn't have any idea what a baby sister would want. I liked westerns, so I grabbed a toy gun.      
"No. Buy a rattle."    
A rattle? That sounded boring, but I bought a pink plastic rattle. 
    
In those days children were not allowed to visit anyone in the hospital. When Aunt Betty visited Ma, she gave the rattle to my new sister. I waited outside the hospital and waved to the window of Ma's room. When Aunt Betty returned she had a gift from my new sister for me: three pieces of chocolate. 
    
Well, wasn't that nice of her. Not as nice as a toy gun, but maybe that was all she could get from where she'd been.   
    

After Rose was born we didn't go to Corona as often. It was easier to walk to the local church instead of driving to St. Leo's. I missed seeing my family. 
    
That September I started kindergarten in St. Fidelis School. Some of the good sisters had wanted to travel and meet exotic heathens in far away places. Well, they almost got their wish. I was the first Maltese child they'd ever seen. College Point had been settled by Irish and German families. It was time for me to learn about America through their eyes. 
    
As Christmas approached, the windows of the German bakeries were filled with the most beautiful cookies I'd ever seen. They were in all kinds of shapes: stars, angels, animals and wreaths. They were decorated with coconut, jam, icing and tiny silver balls. Some of my classmates brought in samples of their mothers' baking. I brought some biscotti. My friends were polite and tasted the dry, double-baked bread. Then we ate the lebkuchen, pfeffernuesse, zimtsterne, and jam filled spitzbuben. The stollen reminded me of panettone. I thought a German Christmas was delicious. I planned to eat German and Italian holiday food every Christmas for the rest of my life.

We helped Sister decorate the Christmas tree with sugar cookies which had been twisted into figure eights. Then Sister told us to gather around her. She was going to read us a story. Sister showed us the picture of Santa Claus and his eight reindeer. My friends were delighted.
    
I was confused. 
    
I had never heard any of this before. Santa was supposed to slide down a chimney and land in a fireplace. We didn't have a fireplace. We had a huge, oil-burning furnace in the basement. Ma hung our stockings, along with all the other wet laundry, on a clothesline near the furnace. It made awful noises and had fire in it. If Santa landed in it he'd fry like a strufoli. That would end Christmas forever. I didn't think Santa would take such a risk for a total stranger. The lovely cookies felt like lead in my stomach.
    
Sister talked about Santa checking his list of good little girls and boys. Santa had a list? I knew we were on the Registered Aliens list. Every January the TV reminded Ma to fill out green cards so we wouldn't go to jail or Malta. How could I get on Santa's list? Could Santa get my name from the Aliens list? Did I need to fill out another card? 
    
The afternoon went from bad to worse. Sister told us we could put our letters to Santa in the special mailbox in the classroom. A letter? What language did Santa speak? He'd never heard from me. I wasn't on his list. What could I say? 
    
"Hi, you don't know me, but I'd like some toys." I'd never written a letter to La Befana. She just gave me toys. Would Santa shoot La Befana if she came to College Point? Oh, boy… I was in big trouble.    
    
In kindergarten we learned about God the Father, about how we should pray to Him and tell Him what we needed. I didn't need another Father. I figured if my Pop was always busy working, this guy who took care of everything in the whole wide world would really never have time for me.
    
I needed a Grandma.
    
The next time we went to Corona I told Nonni about Santa Claus and that he was in charge of Christmas in College Point. Nonni listened patiently as I explained the rules.
    
She repeated the main points, "Santa Claus. A letter."     
I nodded.    
"I fix. I write letter to Befana. She give to Santa. No hard feelings. Christmas come."
    
I had my doubts. Nonni had never been to College Point. Maybe nobody ever had to change from La Befana to Santa Claus. Maybe Christmas was lost forever, like some of the packages we never got from Malta.
    
On Christmas Eve we all gathered at Uncle Joe and Aunt Betty's home in Corona. We had the Christmas Eve dinner. Then we went to St. Leo's for the Midnight Mass. Everything was familiar. Latin and Italian. Why couldn't we have stayed there? 
    
When we were leaving the church I saw a pale cloud in the sky. It looked long and thin, with a sort of lump on one end. For a moment I thought it looked like Santa and his sleigh with eight tiny reindeer. I kept looking at that cloud. It followed us from the church to Uncle Joe's house, where we had panettone. When we left, the cloud was still there. I watched from the car. The cloud followed us from Corona to College Point. 
    
I never noticed clouds before. Did clouds always follow people from one town to another? Was it really a cloud? Sister had told us that Santa had millions of helpers, tiny people called elves. Could it have been an elf picking up the letter from La Befana?
    
Christmas morning, Pop was eating breakfast while Ma was cleaning Rose. Ma sent me to the basement to get some dry diapers that were hanging by the furnace. Being a big sister wasn't much fun. I pulled down two diapers. Then I noticed some lumps by the furnace. I thought some clothes had fallen off the line. I walked toward the furnace. 
    
But the lumps weren't clothes. 
They were boxes. 
They were wrapped. 
They were presents! 
They were for me!!

Santa had found me.

Thursday, December 15, 2022

Anna Sultana's Ricotta Cheesecake and Cannoli Cheesecake (Baked and No-Bake) / Muriel’s Family Christmas by Margaret Ullrich

Thanks to a huge Colorado Low we folks in Winnipeg have been having our first major snow storm of the season.
And we’re not finished shovelling.
We’re supposed to get more snow during the next two days.
When it comes to Winnipeggers getting exercise in winter, who needs to join a gym?


It’s been a while since I posted a recipe for the no-fail edible tranquilizer, a cheesecake.
In honour of the holiday season, and all its stresses, I’m posting three recipes!

The Ricotta Cheesecake is nice and light and the recipe is pretty simple.
Don’t be confused about the Cannoli cheesecakes.
Many of you know that Cannoli is an Italian pastry made of fried pastry dough tubes, ranging in size from 3 to 8 inches, and filled with ricotta and chocolate bits.
You won’t be expected to deep fry or stuff anything for the Cannoli Cheesecakes.
They are just ricotta cheesecakes with a bit of chocolate.

Ah… cheesecake and chocolate!
Don’t you feel calmer just thinking about that?


Hints:

About the Ricotta Cheesecake and No-Bake Cannoli Cheesecake…
If you have a package of graham cracker crumbs, you could use their recipe for the crust.

Don’t have mini chocolate chips? Don’t make an extra trip to the store.
Just use what you have. You could even chop finely a chocolate bar, or two.

About the Cannoli Cheesecake…
If you don’t have a box of cannoli shells you can use any cookies you like or have already.


                        Ricotta Cheesecake

Generously grease a springform pan with butter.

Melt
1/2 Cup butter

Place in medium bowl and crush
18 graham crackers
Stir in the melted butter.
Firmly press the graham cracker mixture into the bottom and along the sides of the springform pan, then set aside.

Sift together into a small bowl
1/3 Cup flour
1 Cup sugar

Place in a medium bowl
4 Cups ricotta cheese
1/2 teaspoons orange extract
Stir together, then slowly fold in the flour mixture until well blended and smooth.

Preheat oven to 325º F

Add, one at a time
6 large eggs
Continuing to blend after each addition.
Stir in
1 teaspoon vanilla

Pour cheese mixture into the graham crust and gently smooth top with a spatula.       
Bake 60 to 70 minutes, until cake is firm throughout the centre.  
Remove pan from oven and let sit on counter 2 hours.
Refrigerate for 2 to 3 hours.
Run a knife around to loosen the cake before removing the outer part of pan.
Generously dust the cheesecake with sifted confectioners’ sugar.
Store leftovers in refrigerator.


                        Cannoli Cheesecake

Line a 9 inch springform pan with parchment.

Crush
7 ounce package cannoli shells
Stir in
3 Tablespoons unsalted butter, melted
2 Tablespoons sugar
Press crumbs firmly onto bottom of pan.
Bake 10 minutes, then let cool.

Place in a large mixer bowl
4 Cups ricotta cheese
1 1/2 Cups sugar
1/4 Cup flour
Beat on medium speed until well blended.
Add
1/2 Cup heavy cream
2 teaspoons vanilla
1/2 teaspoon orange extract
Mix well.

Preheat oven to 350º F

Add, 1 at a time
5 large eggs
After each addition mix just until blended.
Pour cheese mixture over the crust.
Bake for 1 hour and 15 minutes.
Remove from oven and sprinkle over top
1/3 Cup mini chocolate chips
Press chips in lightly.
Continue to bake 10 more minutes, until centre is almost set.
Remove from oven and let sit on counter 2 hours.
Refrigerate for 2 to 3 hours.
Run a knife around to loosen the cake before removing the outer part of pan.

Before serving sprinkle with
1/4 Cup confectioners’ sugar
Top with whipped cream, if desired.
Store leftovers in refrigerator.


                        No-Bake Cannoli Cheesecake

Generously grease a springform pan with butter.

Melt
1/2 Cup butter

Place in medium bowl and crush
18 graham crackers
Stir in the melted butter.
Firmly press the graham cracker mixture into the bottom and along the sides of the springform pan, then set aside.

Place in a large mixer bowl
16 ounces cream cheese, softened at room temperature
Beat cream cheese until fluffy.
Add
1 1/2 Cups heavy cream
Beat until fluffy, then add
1 Cup ricotta
2/3 Cup confectioners’ sugar
Beat until fluffy.
Stir in
2 teaspoons lemon extract
2 teaspoons vanilla
2 teaspoons ground nutmeg
2 teaspoons ground cinnamon
Fold in
1 Cup mini chocolate chips
Pour cheese mixture into graham crust and gently smooth top with spatula.
Top with
1/2 Cup mini chocolate chips
1 Cup crushed cannoli shells, for garnish (optional)
Freeze until firm, at least 3 hours.
Let soften 15 minutes before serving, then slice.
Run a knife around to loosen the cake before removing the outer part of pan.
Store leftovers in the freezer or refrigerator.


                                                       ~~~
This was a holiday piece I wrote a few years ago for the CKUW radio show ‘2000 & Counting’ when we decided to chat about family holiday dinners. 
Being politically correct - and politically sensitive - was just starting around the turn of the century.
It was and is still a part of menu planning.

The family that eats a holiday dinner together… can still be in for a whole lot of trouble.



My friend Muriel still hasn't recovered from last Christmas.

The poor dear had tried to please everybody. Solomon couldn't have pulled that off. Muriel was willing to go with the flow, but she was caught in a tsunami. Her husband Tom is a simple man with simple tastes. He just wanted a roasted bird with stuffing and cranberry sauce.

He should never have had children.

Their eldest daughter, Donna, keeps up with trends. Muriel had asked Donna to bring the appetizers. Muriel expected their traditional celery sticks with cream cheese, crackers and cheese cubes. Donna waltzed in with an oriental party pack and assorted seafood and chicken wing platters. Something for everyone. Uh, huh.
Tom backed off when he saw the egg rolls. "I don't like Chinese."
Donna said, "I got you BBQ chicken wings."
Ignoring her, Tom said, "They don't serve bread." He went to the kitchen for bread.


Then Betty arrived. Betty lives in a commune and supports the rights of everything and everybody… except those of the hostess. Betty always carried tofu because she never ate dairy products or anything with eyes or eggs. Muriel had prepared a nice salad for Betty. Not good enough.
"Were the pickers paid a decent wage?"
"The lettuce had a union label."
"I only eat organically grown food. Did they use manure."
"We had to scrub the carrots with bleach to get the E coli off."
"Oh... okay."
Tom heard E coli and reached for another slice of bread.


Finally their son Bill arrived with his wife Carol and their children, Krystal and Jason. Bill and Carol had every allergy in the book. Bill also had high cholesterol and Carol had her waistline. They avoided the platters of appetizers and drank the water that they had brought.

Krystal, a tender-hearted child, burst into tears when she saw the chicken wings.
"Oh, those poor birdies. Do you know how they treat chickens, Grandma?"

Muriel figured the birds were better off than she was. They never had to make a holiday dinner for the family. But this was her granddaughter.
"Krystal, dear, these birdies lived in a happy place where they laughed and played and sang songs for a long, long time. Then one day they just went to sleep and, just like butterflies, they turned into chicken wings."
"Oh... okay."
Who says the next generation knows it all?
Tom heard Muriel's tale of the laughing, singing chickens, figured she'd finally lost it, and ate more bread.

Ignored by his elders, Jason gobbled a fistful of seafood appetizers and started wheezing. Muriel packed away the appetizers before her children could start a food fight and led them to the main event.


The table looked like a sailboat regatta that had been designed by Martha Stewart. Every dish had a tiny flag listing all of the ingredients. Muriel did not want to have to call the paramedics again. Krystal cried when she saw the turkey.

When Betty reached for the potatoes, Bill said, "But they have eyes". Betty meant to kick her brother, but got her sister-in-law, Carol, who screamed and kicked back. Muriel yelled at her kids. The holiday dinner was just like always. Damn.

After everyone had eaten what they could, Muriel brought out a carafe of hot cranberry apple cider. This was her gift to herself. Seeing all the different coffees at the supermarket had made her go all whoozie. Whatever happened to plain old coffee, black or with cream? Muriel’s children didn't say a word while visions of cappuccinos, espressos and lattes danced in their heads.

Betty was in charge of the dessert. She had created something that was just what the doctor ordered. No eggs, no cream, no butter, and no taste.
Tom just saw a pumpkin pie and it looked fine. He helped himself to a slice, smiled and thought that Betty was returning to the food of her mother.

But, something tasted... off. Maybe a new spice?
"Betty, what's in this pie," he asked.
"Tofu."
"Geez." Tom reached for the bread.

Jason had wheezed throughout the whole meal.
All in all, it had been just another family holiday get together.


God help Muriel. The holidays are back.

Saturday, December 10, 2022

Anna Sultana’s Anise "S" and Mounds, Biscotti Regina, and Rainbow Cookies / Homemade Almond Paste / Frosting Recipe / The First Maltese Lucia Queen by Margaret Ullrich

 

Two weeks till Christmas!
I don’t know about you, but, after not having real Christmases for a few years, thanks to Covid-19, I’m a little rusty.
The rustiness, combined with me in general slowing down, is making this Christmas a challenge.
Ah, well, the chance to get together is worth a bit of work.

And a bit of food.

Cookies are always handy to have on hand for unexpected guests.
A slice of cake, especially fruitcake, can seem a bit overwhelming, but there’s always room for a cookie, or two.
Ma’s Anise cookies, both in the "S" shape and in rounds, and Biscotti Reginas were always available when family came for a visit.
And the rainbow cookies always got a Wow! when they were on the platter.


Hints:
Have the eggs, milk and butter, or margarine, at room temperature.

If you don’t like licorice, use another extract, such as lemon, or use 1/2 anise and 1/2 vanilla for a milder flavour.

About Anise "S" Cookies…
These cookies will puff up, so give them room.
Don’t like frosting? Dip the cookies into milk, then sesame seeds, and bake.
Or after baking, dust cooled cookies with confectioners’ sugar.
For a glossy finish beat an egg in a small bowl and brush each cookie with the egg wash before baking.

About Anise Mound Cookies…
For smooth cookies roll the dough into balls no bigger than the size of a walnut.

About Rainbow Cookies…
Some people use apricot jam instead of raspberry jam.
If there are seeds in the raspberry jam, strain them out.

Homemade Almond Paste (Makes 2 Cups)
Place in blender
2 Cups blanched almonds
Grind until you have a fine almond flour.
Add
1/2 Cup orange juice
1 Cup sugar
Blend until combined well and smooth.
Store in the refrigerator in an air tight container.




                        Anise "S" Cookies

Line 3 large baking sheets with with parchment paper

60 cookies

Sift into a large bowl
5 Cups flour
2 Tablespoons baking powder
1/2 teaspoon salt
Set aside.

Place in a large mixer bowl
3/4 Cup unsalted butter, softened
1 1/4 Cups sugar
Cream together until smooth.

Add, one at a time
6 large eggs
Beat well and add
2 teaspoons anise extract
Blend well.
Making 3 dry and 2 liquid additions add
the flour mixture
1/2 Cup milk
Blend well.
Turn the dough onto a floured board.
Knead until dough is firm and not sticky. Add more flour if needed. 

Preheat oven to 400º F

Break off a handful of dough, roll into long rope, then cut into 5 inch pieces.
Place on lined cookie sheet and form into an ‘S’ shape.
Repeat with remaining dough, placing cookies 2 inches apart.

Bake 8 to 10 minutes, or until they are a light golden brown.
Remove cookies to racks to cool completely.

For the frosting

Place in a medium pot
1 Tablespoon unsalted butter
Melt over low heat. Remove from heat and stir in
5 Tablespoons milk
1 3/4 Cups confectioners’ sugar
Stir to a desired consistency, adding more milk if needed.
Spoon frosting on cookies and immediately top with sprinkles.
Return to rack to set.
Let cool completely and store in airtight container at room temperature.


                        Anise Mound Cookies

80 cookies

Line 4 baking sheets with parchment paper

Sift into a medium bowl
2 3/4 Cups flour
2 1/2 teaspoon baking powder
1/4 teaspoon salt

Place in a large mixer bowl
3/4 Cup sugar
1/2 Cup butter, melted
2 large eggs
1/4 Cup milk
1 teaspoon anise extract
Beat at medium speed until well blended.
Lower to slow speed and add the flour mixture, about 1 cup at a time.
Beat until well blended.

Preheat oven to 325º F

Drop by rounded teaspoonfuls 2 inches apart on the prepared baking sheets.
Bake 8 to 10 minutes, or until they are a light golden brown.
Remove cookies to a wire rack to cool.

For the frosting

Place in a small bowl
1 Cup confectioners’ sugar
4 to 5 teaspoon milk
1 teaspoon anise extract
Beat until smooth.

Dip the tops of the cookies into the frosting.
Right after dipping, while the glaze is still wet, top with sprinkles.
Let set until glaze hardens.


                        Biscotti Regina
                       
48 cookies

Grease and flour 4 large cookie pans

Pour into a shallow bowl
1/2 Cup milk

On a piece of waxed paper spread
1 Cup sesame seeds

Sift into a medium bowl
2 1/2 Cups flour
1/4 teaspoon baking powder
1/8 teaspoon salt

Place in a large mixer bowl
1 Cup butter
3/4 Cup sugar
Cream together until smooth.
Add
1 large egg
2 teaspoons anise extract
Beat in.
Stir the flour into the butter mixture until forming a soft dough.

Pinch off a walnut-sized piece of dough and shape it into a small log. Set aside. Repeat with the remaining dough.

Preheat the oven to 350º F

Dip a log into the milk, then dip it in the sesame seeds.
Place the cookie on a cookie pan, seeded side up.
Repeat with the remaining logs and place on pans 1 inch apart.
Bake 15 to 20 minutes, until the logs are lightly toasted.
Let cool on the cookie pans for 10 minutes.
Remove cookies to racks to cool completely.
Store in an airtight container at room temperature.

                        Venetian Rainbow Cookies

Grease three 9 x 13 inch pans
Line with waxed paper and grease again

Sift together
2 Cups flour
1/4 teaspoon salt
Set aside.

Separate, placing whites in a small mixer bowl and yolks in a cup.
4 large eggs
Set aside the yolks and beat the egg whites until stiff peaks form.

Place in a large mixer bowl
1 Cup (8 ounces) almond paste
1 1/2 Cups butter, softened
1 Cup sugar
the reserved 4 eggs yolks
1 teaspoon almond extract
Beat for 5 minutes until fluffy.
Slowly beat in the flour mixture and fold in the egg whites.

Preheat oven to 350º F

Remove 1 1/2 Cups of batter and spread in the first prepared pan.

Remove another 1 1/2 Cups of batter and place in a small bowl.
Add
10 drops green food colouring
Blend well and spread in the second pan.

Add to the remainder of the batter
10 drops red food colouring
Blend well and spread into the third pan.

Bake for 15 minutes, just until edges are golden brown.
Remove from oven and cool layers on wire racks.

Heat
12 ounces seedless raspberry preserves

Place the green layer on a foil covered cookie sheet.
Spread half of the warm preserves on top of the green layer.
Place the yellow layer on top and spread the reminder of the preserves.
Place the red layer on top of the preserves and cover with plastic wrap.
Put a weight, such as a cutting board, on top and store in the fridge overnight.

Melt
2 squares semisweet chocolate or 2 ounces semisweet chocolate chips
Spread a thin layer of chocolate over the top.
Allow to dry for 30 minutes and then cut into 1inch square pieces.

                                                            ~~~
Along with being a co-host for the CKUW radio show ‘2000 & Counting’ from 1999 to 2007, I wrote stories and essays, which I then read live on air.
Back in 2000 I wrote this for our show. 
No, I don’t do any of these seasonal feast celebrations anymore.
At my age I have to conserve my energy for Christmas!

My parents and I immigrated to New York in 1950. A few years later, when I was in school, I asked why we didn't have anything pretty to eat for Christmas. My Ma told me that in Malta, Christmas was a religious celebration. The focus was on God becoming man, not on cookies.

Maltese desserts are simple - fresh fruit and cheese with an occasional cookie. One Maltese cookie, the biskuttini tar rahal, could be described as hardened library paste with a hint of lemon and a dash of royal icing. A variation on the biskuttini cuts the sugar by half and replaces the royal icing with a sprinkling of sesame seeds.  
Both cookies are wonderful teething rings.  

Another favourite is the anise biscotti. The big thrill with a biscotti is seeing how much milk it can suck up before breaking in half and falling into your glass. 
It's like eating the sinking Titanic.  
For the holidays, we borrow from the Sicilians and make kannoli tar-rikotta (ricotta in a fried pastry tube) or a qassata (vanilla custard shmeared over a sponge cake).  
How lame is that?  


I knew my German classmates ended their meals with more oomph. Our parish, St. Fidelis, was a cookie heaven. The most amazing homemade cookies were brought to every church and school function by my friends' Moms. They were rich and gorgeous - the cookies, I mean. They were loaded with spices, fruits, nuts and jams, and were covered with thick layers of frosting and all sorts of sprinkles.  

When my Ma saw the competition she admitted defeat and took over the job of bringing coffee. I was free to eat whatever caught my eye. While I gushed, my friends' Moms all beamed. My friends thought I was nuttier than the cookies.  


My husband is a third generation American - half Swedish and half German. Okay, I was marrying into the Cookie Big Leagues. I thought, along with the change of name, I'd return from my honeymoon a changed woman able to make cookies with a capital ‘C’. To paraphrase the biblical story of Ruth, I believed
What thou eatest, I will eat... thy cookies shall be my cookies...

Well, you get the picture.  Thanks to the movie The Sound of Music, I just knew we'd celebrate Christmas a la von Trapp: sitting beneath a huge, glowing tree,
singing Edelweiss and munching beautiful cookies, my favorite things. Ethnic things.
The ethnic bit nearly ended my marriage.

There's an old German saying: That which really tastes oft us trouble makes. Now, there's truth in advertising. Clear as a bell, they were warning me to not even go there. If I'd had half a brain I'd have just thrown in the mixing bowl and placed a huge order at the local German bakery for a deluxe assorted cookie platter, with some stollen on the side.

Nope, I didn't take the hint. I studied every German and Swedish cookbook I could find. The biggest surprise was that there were other days that had to be celebrated. Okay, I thought, practice makes perfect. Maybe it's like opening a Broadway show in Boston. I learned about their holiday customs.  

The first Advent biggie was December 6. St. Nicholas' Day. That called for small presents in Paul's shoes and some hot chocolate and buns for breakfast. No problem. The morning went without a hitch.  
Huzzah!! One day I'd bake cookies that looked like jewels!  


I spent more nights baking instead of sleeping. My next goal was an authentic Swedish Saint Lucia Day for our first December 13. Maybe the lack of sleep was affecting my mind.  

According to one big fat book, a good Swedish wife got up at four a.m. to start tossing her cookies. God forbid any sunlight should shine on the dough or disaster would befall the household. Every hefty housefrau hoped a crescent moon was hovering on the horizon to bring good luck to the baking.  

No kidding. Without that sliver of light she could get killed, stumbling around in the dark like that. I really thought that if I followed the customs, my baking would get better. I got up at four a.m. and baked. Okay, I cheated. I used electric lights.  

Then I ran into a slight problem. According to tradition, saffron buns and coffee were served between three and four a.m. by the eldest daughter, who was dressed as the Lucia Queen. We didn't have children and I couldn't borrow a neighbour's kid for that ungodly hour. I had to make some changes in the sacred customs. I, as an eldest daughter, became the first Maltese Lucia Queen. Ever.

I stitched up a long white robe and tied shining red balls to our Advent wreath. I memorized the traditional poem. Then, when I saw how much saffron cost, I made another teeny change. I made cinnamon buns. What harm could it do?


The days flew. Finally, it was December 13, 3:45 a.m. Show Time!
I was clad in white, balancing an advent wreath with bouncing red balls and gleaming white candles upon my head. I was a glowing, flaming cherries jubilee, clutching a tray laden with coffee and cinnamon buns and walking ever so slowly to our bed.  

Hovering over Paul, I chanted: Night goes with silent steps...
Hmmph... No answer. He was snoring. No Swedish genes were making him wake up to behold his Lucia Queen.  
Well, after all that work, this Lucia Queen required an audience.
Creating my own liturgy, I ad libbed. Wake up, Paul!
Still no answer. I set the tray down, gave him a push and repeated
Night goes with silent steps... Damn it, wake up!!
He snorted, turned and faced me. It took him a while to focus.
Okay, finally, I, the Lucia Queen, was getting the respect I deserved.  

I went back to chanting, my voice building to an impressive boom
Night goes with silent steps round house and cottage.
O'er earth that sun forgot, Dark shadows linger.      
Then on our threshold stands white clad in candlelight,
SANTA LUCIA, SANTA LUCIA!!!


He looked. He blinked. He screamed.
He said something that no one should ever say to a Lucia Queen.

I blamed the cinnamon. Maybe the Swedish mojo just doesn't work with cinnamon.
Look, if my Ma can blame religion, I can blame spices.

Wednesday, December 7, 2022

Anna Sultana’s Ricotta Cookies and Christmas Cake / 1930s Dollar Fruitcake (Winnipeg Free Press) / Tossing Christmas Cookies by Margaret Ullrich

 

It's that time of year.
All together now: Tradition... Tradition...
I know that most of the time everyone just does what they have - or want - to do.
But now it’s the holiday season, and there are rules - I mean, traditions - that must be followed.
Yippee kay yoh kay yay!


Back in December, 2009 I posted the recipe for the Winnipeg Free Press’s 1930s Dollar Fruitcake in my blog Winnipeg is Better Than Chocolate.
It’s been a popular post every December and it just occurred to me that, if you haven’t been reading my Winnipeg blog, you haven’t seen the recipe.
So, I’m reposting it here.

Ma wouldn’t have made that fruitcake, but she did make Ricotta Cookies.
Why not? It was an easy, and sneaky, way to get more cheese into us.

Ricotta Cookies, when fresh from the oven, can be used as shortcake.
In the summer, instead of putting icing on the cookies, Ma sometimes topped the cookies with mashed sugared berries and added a dollop of whipped cream.
For the grown-ups she’d add a dash of booze to the fruit.

If you don’t want to make a fruitcake but want a cake for your holiday dinner you could make this Christmas Cake.
It has layers of almond butter cake, a jam filling, and a chocolate icing.


Hints:

About the Ricotta Cookies…

As with all cookies, have the butter and eggs at room temperature so that the butter is soft enough to blend easily with the sugar.

The extra fat in whole milk ricotta helps make soft, tender cookies.


The cookies are often flavoured with lemon or anise extract, but you could use vanilla or almond or orange extract. You could use one flavour in the cookies and a different one in the icing. You could divide the batter and use a different flavouring in each batch.

The dough can be made ahead of time and stored, covered, in the refrigerator for a few days. The unbaked dough does not freeze well.

If you have 2 cookie sheets allow them to cool completely before using for the second batch. Refrigerate the remaining dough while working on the first portion.

Unglazed cookies can be stored in an airtight container.
Let frosted cookies dry for at least 2 hours before placing them in a covered, not airtight, container with wax paper separating each layer. Store at room temperature.

The glaze softens over time. If giving as gifts, frost on the day you deliver.

You could also use a buttercream frosting.

It is best to eat them within 5 days.

Baked unfrosted Ricotta Cookies freeze well.


About the Christmas Cake…

To evenly divide the batter, use a kitchen scale and weigh out the batter in each bowl.

Add as much food colouring as you like. I used 1/2 teaspoon of each colour.

Chill the cake to produce fewer crumbs. Score around the cake layer and cut only a little bit at a time. When cutting the layer in half use a long serrated knife and keep it parallel to your work surface.
If a cake does split when you are cutting it, fit the pieces back together and use a bit of jam as glue. Place the split layers in the centre of the cake and no one will know.


About the 1930s Dollar Fruitcake…

During the early 1930s this recipe cost $1 to make.
By 1974 the cost of those same ingredients had increased to more than $4.
By 1979 the price passed $8.
Now? Don't ask. Just enjoy.




                        Ricotta Cookies

48 cookies

Line 4 cookie sheets with parchment paper
or use 4 ungreased cookie sheets
                 
Sift together
4 1/2 Cups flour

1 teaspoon baking powder

1 teaspoon baking soda

1/2 teaspoon salt

Place in a large bowl
1/2 pound butter, softened
Cream thoroughly, then add, 1/2 cup at a time
2 Cups sugar
Continue creaming until well blended.
Add
1 pound whole milk ricotta

2 eggs

1 teaspoon vanilla
1 teaspoon extract of your choice, or more vanilla
Beat well.
Add sifted ingredients to the batter.

Preheat oven to 350º F

Drop about a teaspoon of dough two inches apart on 2 baking sheets.
Place in the oven and bake 10 to 13 minutes, until edges are lightly browned.

WHILE COOKIES ARE BAKING make cookies with the remaining dough and place on other 2 baking sheets.
Remove cookies from the oven when the edges are lightly browned.
Allow cookies to cool on the baking sheet for 3 minutes before transferring to a wire rack to cool completely before icing.
Bake remaining cookies.

Icing:

Place in large mixer bowl
1/4 Cup butter
3 Tablespoon milk
1/2 teaspoon vanilla or lemon extract
Blend well, then gradually add
2 Cups confectioners’ sugar
Spread icing on top of the cookies.
While the frosting is still wet top with
multi-coloured sprinkles or coloured sugar


                        Christmas Cake

Grease and flour three 8 inch cake pans

For the cake

Sift together in a medium bowl
2 3/4 Cups flour
2 1/2 teaspoons baking powder
1/2 teaspoon salt
Set aside.

Place in a large bowl of an electric mixer
10 ounces almond paste, broken into small pieces
1 1/2 Cups unsalted butter, softened
Beat together until thoroughly combined, about 4 minutes.
Add in, 1/2 cup at a time
2 Cups sugar
Mix until fluffy and  thoroughly combined, about 3 minutes.
Stir in
1/2 teaspoon almond extract
1/2 teaspoon vanilla extract
Beat in, one at a time, until blended
5 large eggs
Stop the mixer and scrape down the sides and bottom of the bowl.
Making 3 dry and 2 liquid additions add
the flour mixture
3/4 Cup whole milk
Mix only until the dry ingredients are just blended. Do not over mix as the batter will also be mixed when you add the colouring.

Pre-heat oven to 350º F

Evenly divide the batter into 3 separate bowls.
Add to the first bowl
1/2 teaspoon red food colouring
Add to the second bowl
1/2 teaspoon green food colouring
Mix each bowl until combined.
Pour the red batter into a prepared pan, the green batter into the second pan, and the uncoloured batter into the third pan.
Bake for 28 - 32 minutes, until a toothpick inserted into the centre of the cake comes out clean.
Cool on a wire rack for 15 minutes.
Remove the cakes from their pans.
Let the cakes cool completely.
Refrigerate before slicing each cake in half horizontally to have 6 layers of cake.

For the frosting

Melt
8 ounces semi-sweet or dark chocolate
Allow to cool thoroughly.

Place in a large mixer bowl
1 Cup unsalted butter, softened
Beat until smooth and creamy.
With the mixer on low, gradually add
1 1/2 Cups confectioners’ sugar
1/3 Cup unsweetened cocoa powder
2 Tablespoons hot water
1/2 teaspoon vanilla
pinch salt
Turn the mixer up to medium and mix until combined.
Add the cooled melted chocolate and mix until combined.

To assemble

Have on hand
3/4 to 1 Cup raspberry jam

Leave a layer that has a bottom of a cake layer uncovered with jam so that you can have a top layer that is flat and unsliced.
Spread 2 to 3 Tablespoons of the raspberry jam on top of 5 layers of cake.
Stack the layers, alternating the colours, with the top of the cake being unsliced.
Ice the cake with the chocolate frosting.
If the frosting is too thick to spread, add in more hot water, a teaspoon at a time.
If it is too runny, place it in the refrigerator a few minutes.

If you wish to add sprinkles:
The frosting sets quickly. Add sprinkles while the frosting is still fresh so they will stick.


                        1930s Dollar Fruitcake (Winnipeg Free Press)

Line a 9-inch tube pan with greased brown paper or heavy-duty aluminum foil

Pour boiling water over
1 pound sultana raisins
Place raisins between paper towels and dry thoroughly.
Set aside.

Halve
1/2 pound candied cherries

Chop
1/2 Cup blanched almonds
1/2 Cup walnuts

Place in a measuring cup
1/4 Cup fruit juice (orange, apple, grape or juice from canned fruit)
1/2 teaspoon brandy flavouring or almond extract

Place in a large bowl
the washed and dried raisins
the halved candied cherries
the chopped blanched almonds and walnuts
2 Cups mixed peel

Sift together
2 Cups flour
1 teaspoon baking powder
1/4 teaspoon salt
Sift again over the fruits and nuts, then stir until each piece is coated.

Place in a large mixer bowl
1 Cup butter
Cream until light and fluffy.
Gradually blend in
1 Cup sugar

Beat in, one at a time, until blended
3 eggs

Preheat oven to 300º F

Making 3 dry and 2 liquid additions, stir the flour / fruit mixture alternately with the fruit juice into the butter / sugar mixture.

Spoon the batter into the prepared pan.
Bake 2 1/4 to 2 3/4 hours, until the cake starts to pull away from the side of the pan.

Remove pan from oven and let the cake cool in the pan on a rack.
Remove cake from pan and allow to cool thoroughly.
Wrap well and store in airtight container.

                                                       ~~~
I also wrote the following essay about Christmas traditions for our CKUW radio show ‘2000 & Counting’. Over the years our listeners asked for some seasonal stories to be repeated.
They seemed to like being reminded that we were all in the same holiday boat, a communal ship which made us feel like we were all sinking fast.


Ah… Christmas shopping, holiday baking and holiday customs…
Why do we do it?


I don't know about you, but as far as I'm concerned, there are two questions no one should ever ask a woman.

The first is How old are you?
The second is Have you done your holiday baking yet?

Why is it that, when the thermometer falls, we're supposed to bake? 
Does the Queen whip up a fruitcake before writing her speech?
I don't think so.  

Holiday baking has been with us an awfully long time.
Did you know that ginger was popular in Greece over 5,000 years ago? The Egyptians were eating gingerbread when the great pyramid of Cheops was just a brick and a prayer. I wonder what their gingerbread men looked like.

A few years after Egypt's building boom, an English King and his hunting party got lost in a blizzard on Christmas Eve. Well, they were clever lads full of English pluck, so they threw everything they had - meat, flour, sugar, apples, ale and brandy - into a bag and cooked it. Wallah!!  Plum pudding. The Iron Chef would've been proud.  

On Christmas Day in 1666, Samuel Pepys wrote in his diary that he had risen earlier than his wife Who was desirous to sleep having sat up till four this morning seeing her maids make mince pies. 
I really admire Mrs. P. She just sat and watched her maids do the work, yet her husband felt guilty about her workload. How did she get him to suffer like that?   

Some Christmas carols seem a little too focused on food.  For example:
     Now bring us some figgy pudding and a cup of good cheer!
     We won't go until we get some, so bring it out here.

Those were somebody's friends?  Somebody should've called the cops.


Holiday baking has followed us into modern times. The 1970s was the decade of old time family television shows like The Waltons and memoir books.
Have you ever browsed through a memoir book? It could make you weep. They reminded us of times like this...
Evenings when a cold blustery wind howled outside were perfect for sorting through recipes. They were cozy times. The children were sitting at the oak table helping Mama chop fruit and raisins. Papa was cracking and shelling nuts and crushing fresh spices in the grinder.

Isn't that sweet? Sentences like that convinced me that if we did things just like people did before television was invented, the world would be a kinder, gentler place.

We'll never know. Paul told me, in no uncertain terms, that he was too busy to grind nuts for a cake he didn't even want.
Alright. Scratch Paul grinding his nuts. I bought ground nuts.

Step two... the batter had to be mixed. Back to that memoir...
When all the fruits were in, Grandmother called, 'Come, stir the batter!'
We all took turns giving it a stir - clockwise for good luck - and made a wish.


I made a batter, threw in the fruits and called out Come, stir the batter!

Carl pointed to the electric mixer sitting on the counter and said that he was staying on the eighth level of his computer game, The Temple of Ra. He also told me, in no uncertain terms, that he was too busy to stir batter for a cake he didn't even want.

I stirred the batter, clockwise.
Don't ask what I wished.


It's been downhill ever since. Do you know about the charming Swedish custom of hiding a whole almond in a serving bowl of rice pudding? The lucky person who finds the almond has to get married or do the dishes. Either my husband or my son - the fink never confessed - managed to swallow the almond every time.

I tried the German version: whoever finds the almond receives a marzipan pig. By then Paul and Carl had their own tradition: swallowing the almond. I felt so guilty looking at that poor rejected pig.
I started my own tradition and ate him... along with the cake.

There's a Christmas carol that goes: Christmas is coming, the goose is getting fat...

Well, the goose isn't the only one.

Thursday, December 1, 2022

Anna Sultana's Pasta e Piselli, Shrimp Carbonara, Tomato Bruschetta, and Bagna Cauda / Oh, Christmas Tree! by Margaret Ullrich

 

Happy December!
Somebody once said
Life is not measured by the number of breathes we take, but by the moments that take our breath away.
I’m wishing you a few breath taking moments this holiday season!
Stay safe and well!

It looks like the holiday season this year is going to be a return to December as it should be.
Gatherings, customs and food.  Yes, lots of food!


After our tree hunting adventure way back when, we gathered in a co-worker’s home, where she had a platter of cookies, and apple cider simmering in a huge slow cooker.
Ma would’ve been horrified.
All that work should have rewarded with more food.

This is how she would’ve done it.
Well, to be honest, she would’ve just gone to a lot and bought a tree.
Followed by a food spread with a bit more heft.


Hints:

About the Pasta e Piselli…
If you’re in a rush, instead of cooking the pasta separately you can place 2 1/2 quarts water in the dutch oven instead of 2 quarts, add the onion, etc. and proceed with the recipe.
When you add the peas also add the 1 pound elbow macaroni. Then cook, stirring occasionally, until the pasta is al dente.
Add the parsley, taste and season and add more water if you want, along with the oil.

About the Shrimp Carbonara…
For a little more flavour you could add a bit of garlic.
You could use evaporated milk or heavy cream instead of the cream cheese.
This recipe also works with strips of chicken breasts.
The sauce can be served separately so that each person can add as much, or as little, of the sauce and cheese as he wants.

About the Bagna Cauda…

It can be used as a dip for vegetables, such as roasted peppers, or, using olive oil instead of butter, as a hot salad dressing.
For a bit of crunch you can add chopped walnuts.
Don’t dip bread into the pot until everyone has had his fill. Bread would absorb too much of the sauce.
It can also be served over polenta and sprinkled with Parmesan cheese and pepper.




                        Pasta e Piselli

Chop
1 large onion

In a large pot place
4 quarts water
salt to taste
Bring to a boil.
Add
1 pound elbow macaroni
Cook, stirring occasionally, until the pasta is al dente.
Drain and set aside.

WHILE THE WATER IS BOILING:
Place in a dutch oven
2 quarts water
the chopped onion
Bring to a boil, then lower heat and simmer 30 minutes.
Add
1 pound peas
Continue to simmer for another 10 minutes.
Add
1 Tablespoon dried parsley
Taste, then season with salt and pepper.
Add the cooked pasta, mix well and drizzle olive oil over the top.




                        Shrimp Carbonara

Serves 4

Chop
4 slices bacon

In a large pot place
2 quarts water
salt to taste (optional)
Bring to a boil.
Add
1/2 pound spaghetti
Cook, stirring occasionally, until the pasta is al dente.
Drain and set aside.

WHILE THE WATER IS BOILING:
Place the chopped bacon in a dutch oven and cook until crisp.
Remove bacon from skillet with slotted spoon and drain on paper towels.
Drain bacon drippings, reserving 1 tablespoon in the pan.
Add
1 pound large shrimp, uncooked, deveined and peeled
Cook and stir on medium heat 5 minutes, or until the shrimp turns pink.
Stir in
1/2 - 1 Cup frozen peas or mixed vegetables or broccoli
Cook 1 minute.
Add
1 Cup cream cheese
1/2 Cup milk
Cook and stir 5 minutes, or until the cream cheese is melted and the sauce is thickened.
Do not let the sauce come to boil.
Add the drained spaghetti to the dutch oven.
Mix lightly and add
1/4 Cup grated Parmesan cheese


                        Tomato Bruschetta

Stem, seed and dice
4 large ripe tomatoes

Mince
2 cloves garlic

Place in a small bowl
the diced tomatoes and the minced garlic
salt and pepper to taste
1 Tablespoon extra virgin olive oil
Mix well.

Cut into 36 slices
1 baguette
Place the slices on a large cookie sheet.
Brush bread slices with
1/4 Cup extra virgin olive oil
Broil under preheated broiler until toasted.
Remove from heat and place slices on a platter.
Top slices with the tomato mixture.
Garnish with chopped fresh basil (optional)

                        Bagna Cauda

Finely chop
4 cloves garlic

Place in a saucepan
1/2 Cup butter
the chopped garlic
2 cans anchovies fillets, including the oil
3 Tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
Fresh pepper to taste.
Stir and cook gently for 10 minutes.
Serve with raw or slightly blanched sliced vegetables and crusty bread.


                                                            ~~~
For another broadcast of our CKUW radio program ‘2000 & Counting’ we planned to reminisce about when we had gone out into the woods to chop down a Christmas tree.
Yes, this was, and is, a popular Winnipeg Christmas tradition.
And, yes, in Manitoba it can get cold enough to make trees brittle!



God, it was cold.

I didn't know it could get that cold.
I didn't know I'd ever be stupid enough to be outdoors in that kind of cold.
I didn't know I'd been stupid enough to marry someone stupid enough to work with people stupid enough to be out in that kind of cold.

It was December in Winnipeg.

Paul and I had grown up in New York City. There people went to an empty parking lot where the trees had magically appeared, like the pre-wrapped ground beef at the local supermarket. No questions asked. No one wanted to get too personal with an ornament that would be out with the trash in a matter of weeks.

At the New York parking lot we'd browse, find a tree we liked and switch the price tag with the cheaper tree which no one liked. Then we'd carry the tree to the clerk, who gave us the fish eye as he noticed the fullness of such a good find, sighed and took our money. The whole deal was done in ten minutes. Another Christmas had begun.

Apparently, that isn't good enough for Winnipeggers.
Oh, no, they have to get down and dirty with their holiday bushes.


I'll never forget how happy Paul was when he came home and told me we'd been invited to join his co-workers, a group of Winnipeggers, for a real, old-fashioned Christmas experience. If I'd had a clue I'd have realized that giving birth in a barn, unaided, would've been an easier old-fashioned Christmas experience.
We were going to chop down a real Christmas tree, just like our ancestors.

Well, my parents are from Malta, a sunny Mediterranean island. It just wasn't in my genes to know how to dress for a freezing, miserable, forced march through a blizzard-hit forest. The windchill - which I still didn't understand - was in the exposed skin can freeze in 2 minutes range.

That didn't sound good, so I said, Thanks, but no thanks.


Somehow Paul convinced me that his entire future career prospects, our unborn children's college fund, our grandchildren's lives and our golden years' security and comfort would all go up in smoke if I didn't join in the mighty tree hunt.

His Jewish co-workers were going. Everybody, even that ditzy receptionist who always dressed like a showgirl wannabe with skirts up to there, was going.

So, we were going.


God, it was cold.

I thought I had dressed warmly.
That fink, the ditzy receptionist, showed up looking like the Michelin Man. She was ready to march to the North Pole for the perfect tree, if necessary. So were the three other women co-workers. The other wives - who all knew better - had begged off. One was even pregnant. Or so she said.

I was alone with four career women who were full of the 1970s I am woman, hear me roar career fever. While they talked shop I felt as welcome as a lump of coal in a kid’s Christmas stocking.

The Jewish co-workers - who I had hoped would keep the tree hunt frenzy within limits - had turned into lumberjacks. They were also ready to march to the North Pole for the perfect tree, if necessary.

After walking five minutes I couldn't feel my toes. We hadn't even gotten out of the parking lot. I was doomed.

I didn't know it could get that cold.
We marched. Finally, someone approved of a tree. The men chopped. The tree crashed. The branches that hit the ground broke off the tree.

I said, The bare side could be placed against a wall.

The heat from their glares should have restored my circulation. It didn't. We marched. Someone approved of another tree. The men chopped. The tree crashed. It broke.


God, it was cold.

We were doomed to spend all day wandering like Flying Dutchmen on a quest to find the perfect unbreakable tree. The lot was littered with other broken felled trees. Some trees had landed across their comrades in a criss-cross pattern that looked like a cradle.
A cradle, something soft, something to receive and hold...

Hold it… something to catch a damn tree!

Dripping snot and tears had frozen my mouth shut. If I'd had the equipment I would've written my idea in the snow. I slapped my face trying to restore circulation to my lower jaw. Finally my lips parted. I clutched Paul's arm.

Cradle... tree... cradle, I mumbled and criss-crossed my arms.

The women thought I was pregnant and wanted a homemade cradle. Thank God, months of marriage, misery and love had united Paul's mind to mine. Months of marriage had also taught us that Paul was no carpenter. He knew the homemade cradle idea was bunk. Paul caught on to my pantomime and told the others of my plan.

Someone approved of another tree. It could land on four broken trees. The men chopped. The tree landed on its fallen comrades. It survived.
We marched. Someone approved of another tree. It, too, survived.

Christmas was saved.


God, it was cold.

I didn't know it could get that cold.
I couldn't believe it.
Some fool was planning the next year's tree chopping expedition.