Sunday, March 15, 2026

Irish Soda Bread, Irish Boxties, Colcannon, Mashed Potato Casserole, Onion Soup, Lamb Barley Soup, Irish Cream, Irish Fix and Irish Coffee l Don't Tell Me About St. Patrick by Margaret Ullrich

St. Patrick’s Day is on Tuesday.
Thursday, officially the first day of Spring, is also the feast of St. Joseph.
Do you ever wonder how St. Patrick and St. Joseph feel about their feast days always happening in Lent?
I mean, a feast is a feast, and that calls for a feast, not bread and water.
So here are a few dishes that should be okay either way.


I'm posting the Irish Soda Bread recipe that I clipped from The New York Daily News over sixty years ago. It is easy to make, doesn’t need special ingredients, and goes well with a corned beef and cabbage dinner, or anything else.  


Irish Cakes, known as Boxties, were created in the mid-nineteenth century when Ireland was being hit by the Great Famine, which was caused by a mildew that attacked potato crops. The poor potato crop led to the great migration of Irish to North America.
Boxty comes from the Irish aran bocht tí (poorhouse bread).
Yes, it’s always about food.


Irish coffee also has a bit of history.
San Francisco Chronicle columnist Stanton Delaplane was served one during a stop at Ireland’s Shannon Airport bar in 1952. Bartender Joe Sheridan had created the drink during World War II to greet weary American travellers arriving in the wee hours of the morning.
Irish people drank whiskey in tea, but Sheridan knew the Americans preferred coffee.
A smart businessman, Sheridan knew the customer was always right.

When Delaplane returned to San Francisco, he passed the recipe on to barman Jack Koeppler at the Buena Vista Cafe. Soon all of America learned of this drink. And the rest, as they say, is history. Irish coffee is always best served with a toast:

May you always have
Walls for the winds,
A roof for the rain,
Tea beside the fire,
Laughter to cheer you,
Those you love near you,
And all your heart might desire!



Hints:

You can make a buttermilk substitute for baking.
Combine 1 tablespoon lemon juice or vinegar with 1 cup milk.
Let it sit for 2 minutes, stir and use.

About the Boxties…
Add a pinch of pepper, garlic or other spices - whatever you wish.

For breakfast you can butter each boxty and serve hot with or without sugar.
You can also serve crisp bacon with them and drizzle maple syrup over them.
You could top them with smoked salmon and crème fraîche.
Or serve them with wilted spinach and a poached egg.
You can use boxty as a pizza base with tomato and cheese.
You can also serve a boxty as a wrap for fajitas.
They also freeze well.

You could cook the batter like a dumpling (called hurleys) or bake it like a loaf.


About the Colcannon…
An old Irish Halloween tradition is to serve it with a ring and a thimble, or small coins, hidden in the dish. Do warn your guests before they tuck into their veggies.

If you have leftover shredded cabbage, heat a knob of butter and cook it for 5 minutes.
It should still be just a little crunchy.


About the Onion Soup…
You could use one pound each of red onions, sweet onions and yellow onions.
Or whatever assortment you have.
The soup can be prepared, cooled, then refrigerated up to 2 days.
When ready to serve, bring it to a boil, ladle into the bowls and continue.

If you want to omit the dry sherry, increase the beef broth to 7 1/4 cups.


About the Lamb Barley Soup…
If you have a lamb leg or chops dinner, save the bones. Place them in a large pot, cover with water, add a diced onion or two with a few bay leaves, and simmer for a few hours.
You can add an envelope of onion soup mix and a teaspoon or two of chilli powder.
Let the broth cool and then strain it.
Pick any meat off the bones and add the bits to the broth.

If you haven’t had lamb since last Easter, use broth or water.
Ground beef will work with beef or vegetable broth.
Ground chicken or turkey is good with chicken or vegetable broth.


About the Irish Cream…
Some people use coconut extract instead of the almond extract.
Always whip your heavy cream without sugar right before serving.

 

          Irish Soda Bread
          
Grease a cookie pan.         
Preheat oven to 375º  F        

Combine in a large bowl
3 Cups flour
3 Tablespoons sugar
1 Tablespoon baking powder
1/2 teaspoon baking soda
                                                               1/2 teaspoon salt

Stir in
1/2 Cup currants or raisins
1 1/3 Cups buttermilk

Gently knead the dough on a floured board.
Shape into a round loaf and place on the prepared pan.
Cut a cross on top of the loaf.
Bake 45 minutes.

Place in a small bowl
2 Tablespoons sugar
2 Tablespoons hot water

Remove loaf from oven and brush with sugar glaze.
Return to oven and bake another 10 minutes.

 

          Irish Boxties

Makes 10 boxties
 
Peel
1 pound potatoes
Quarter half of the peeled potatoes and place them in a medium pot.
Boil prepared potatoes in salted water until tender, about 15 to 20 minutes.
Drain all of the water from the potatoes and mash them.

While the potatoes are cooking, grate the remaining half of the potatoes into a large bowl.
Toss the grated potatoes with
1 1/2 Cups flour
Stir in the mashed potatoes.
Add
1 teaspoon baking powder
1/4 teaspoon salt
Combine
1 large egg, beaten
1 1/4 Cups buttermilk
Add to the potato mixture.
Mix well for 2 to 3 minutes.

Grease the skillet with either butter or oil.
Heat over medium heat.
Pour ladlefuls of the batter into the pan.
Spread them out into circles about 1/2 inch thick.
When the first side is golden brown, flip them to cook the other side.
Remove the cooked boxties and repeat with the remaining batter.
Serve hot with butter and honey.


                        Colcannon

Mince
3 green onions

Peel and quarter
2 pounds russet potatoes
Boil potatoes in salted water until tender, about 15 to 20 minutes.

While the potatoes are boiling, shred
3 - 4 Cups cabbage
Blanch in boiling salted water for 2 - 3 minutes.
Drain and set aside.
Drain the potatoes, return to pot, and mash them.
Beat in
2/3 - 3/4 Cup light cream or milk
Add enough to make them smooth.
Place the pan over low heat.
Stir in
1/4 Cup butter or margarine
the blanched cabbage
the minced onion
Beat together until well blended.
Taste for seasoning and add salt and pepper if desired.
Serve hot.
Spoon out a portion to make a small indentation on top of each serving.
Add a pat of butter or margarine in the indentation.
Don’t mash it in, but dip a forkful of the potatoes into the melted butter.

 

          Mashed Potato Casserole

Serves 12

Peel and cube
5 large russet potatoes

Shred 6 Cups green cabbage

Boil prepared potatoes in salted water until tender, about 15 to 20 minutes.

While the potatoes are cooking, place the shredded green cabbage in another pot of boiling salted water (about an inch). Cook, stirring occasionally, until tender, about 6 minutes.
Drain and set aside.

When the potatoes are tender, drain and return the potatoes to the pot.
Place over low heat and shake, uncovered, for about 30 seconds to evaporate excess moisture. Remove from heat and mash the potatoes.

Add to the potatoes
4 ounces cream cheese, softened and cut into pieces
1 teaspoon salt
Mash until smooth.

Grease a large baking dish.
Preheated oven to 425º F

Fold in
1/2 Cup green onions, thinly sliced
the cooked cabbage
Adjust seasoning with salt and pepper.
Spread mixture in the greased baking dish.

Top with
1 Cup old cheddar cheese, grated
Bake casserole, uncovered, for 30 to 50 minutes.

 

          Onion Soup

Cut lengthwise in half, then crosswise into thin slices
3 pounds onions
 
Place in a dutch oven
2 Tablespoons butter
2 Tablespoons olive oil
Heat over medium heat and add
the sliced onions
Stirring frequently, cook 10 minutes. Lower the heat and, stirring occasionally, cook 40 minutes until the onions are golden brown.
Add
2 teaspoons thyme
1/2 teaspoon garlic powder
1/4 Cup dry sherry
Cook and stir on medium high heat 1 minute.
Add
7 Cups beef broth
2 Tablespoons Worcestershire Sauce
1 Tablespoon vinegar
2 bay leaves
Stirring occasionally, bring to a boil.
Cover, reduce heat and simmer for 20 minutes, stirring occasionally.
Remove the bay leaves.

While the soup is simmering, toast
16 French bread or baguette slices (1/2 inch thick)

Heat the broiler.
Ladle soup into 8 ovenproof bowls.
Top with
the toasted bread slices
1 1/2 to 2 Cups shredded Swiss cheese
Broil, 4 inches from heat, 3 to 5  minutes, or until the cheese is golden brown.
Serve with a mixed green salad and crusty rolls or bread.


                        Lamb Barley Soup

Finely chop
2 medium onions
4 medium carrots
 
Place in a large pot
1 pound ground lamb  
the chopped onion
Heat over medium-high heat and stir until the meat is evenly browned and the onions are translucent. Discard any excess grease.
Stir in
1 28 ounce can diced tomatoes, undrained
6 Cups lamb broth
1 can condensed tomato soup
the chopped carrots  
1 Cup barley 
1 1/2 teaspoons rosemary
1 1/2 teaspoons paprika  
1 teaspoon ground black pepper
1/2 teaspoon celery seed
Cover and simmer over medium heat for 45 minutes.


            Irish Cream

Place in a blender
1 cup heavy cream
1 (14 ounce) can sweetened condensed milk
1 2/3 Cups Irish whiskey
2 teaspoons instant coffee granules
2 Tablespoons chocolate syrup
1 teaspoon vanilla
1 teaspoon almond extract
Blend for 20 to 30 seconds.
Pour into a jar that has a tight lid.
Store in the refrigerator for 8 hours.
Shake well before serving.
Serve over cracked ice.
Add
a dollop of whipped cream (optional)


                        Irish Fix

Place in a chilled highball glass
1 teaspoon simple sugar syrup
2 ounces Irish whiskey
1/2 ounce lemon juice
Fill with cracked ice and stir well.
Garnish with
1 thin lime slice
1 thin orange slice
Float on top
2 teaspoons Irish Mist (a honey liqueur)


        Irish Coffee

Place in a small saucepan
12 ounces brewed coffee
4 teaspoons sugar
Stirring occasionally, set over low heat until the mixture is hot but not boiling.

Pour 6 ounces hot coffee into each of two 8-ounce heatproof glasses or mugs.
Add to each serving
1 1⁄2 ounces Irish whiskey
Top with whipped cream.
                                                        Garnish with mint leaves (optional)
Enjoy while it is piping hot.

Happy St. Patrick’s Day!


                                                          ~~~

Years ago I wrote for and told my stories on the CKUW radio show ‘2000 & Counting’.
Here’s one I wrote for St. Patrick’s Day…


Remember how we were all gaga about the dawning of the Age of Aquarius?  

I mean, even if you didn't know enough Astrology to know your own sign - let alone what house you were mooning - you couldn't avoid Hair, the song, play or movie.  And everybody saw the 5th Dimension on The Ed Sullivan Show.  Remember how they just stood there, swaying and singing When the moon is in the seventh house and Jupiter aligns with Mars, then peace will guide the planets and love will fill the stars?  

Ok, Janet Jackson it wasn't.

So who are Aquarians? 
Kim Novak, Vanessa Redgrave, Jeanne Moreau, Mia Farrow, Carmen Miranda and, the comeback king, John Travolta.  We're talking a major sign here.

Some people poo poo all this but I think we'd better start paying attention.  This is a new millennium and cosmic forces are just itching to find any teeny tiny hole where they can get a toehold to shake things up on dear old planet earth.  

No kidding.


Take St. Patrick's Day.  I'm from New York where St. Patrick's was like Christmas.  Everybody - no matter where they came from - sat down to a corned beef and cabbage dinner on March 17. 
Hey, nobody was dumb enough to not notice all the Irish cops, carrying billy clubs, pounding down Fifth Avenue in the St. Patrick's Day Parade.  

Trust me, you didn't want to make a New York cop mad.

For decades I used an Irish Soda Bread recipe that I'd clipped from The New York Daily News.  
Then, like everybody else, I discovered Martha.  Ok, she's Polish, but she had a humdinger of a recipe.  I watched her teach it to some Irish lady who said, Faith and beggorah!  'Tis better than me own sainted Mum's recipe. 

When I heard the 'Tis word, I was hooked.  

I downloaded the recipe from Martha's website and everything went tickety boo.
Until Martha got convicted.
Well, that shook everybody up.  
Her stock took a tumble and you could've shot a cannon through the department store aisles where her household items were gathering dust.  
Frugal housewives were clipping Martha Stewart labels from towels and sheets.  

With visions of mad cops marching in my head, I thought it wouldn't be kosher to whip up a loaf of Martha's Irish Soda Bread.  
Back to the computer.

There's lots of stuff about Ireland on the internet.  
Did you know that corned beef is not the national dish?  It was eaten as a last resort during hard times.  
Irish coffee was the invention of the Buena Vista Cafe in San Francisco.  
When Irish Eyes are Smiling is an American song.  
And many Irish people consider green to be an unlucky color.
    
Finally I found The Traditional Irish Soda Bread Recipe and double clicked.  

Now how was I supposed to know the cosmic forces that click would unleash?  
Before you could say Faith and beggorah, my computer started to glow, I heard a banshee wail and my printer took on a life of its own printing sheets of I didn't know what.  

Odd characters strolled around my room.  They looked like a touring company of The Lord of Rings.  Some were chanting, some were crying and some were doing tai chi.  

This was not a good thing.
     
Enough was enough.  I pressed the option and command keys, made the sign of the cross and punched the escape key.  
It worked.  
iMac 1, Druids 0.
The pages were all over the floor.  
Seems somebody is holding a cosmic grudge.  

According to legend, St. Patrick put a curse on venomous snakes in Ireland.  Then he drove all the snakes into the sea.  
Well, according to my visiting Hobbits, the snakes were a popular tourist attraction, their version of Manitoba's Narcisse Wildlife Management Area.  

You've heard of Narcisse, where thousands of red-sided garter snakes emerge from the limestone sinkholes in late April and tangle in a mating ritual for three weeks.  Ok, it's not Disneyland, but tourists come and spend and that's always a good thing.  
Why wreck a nice little cottage industry?  
Why, indeed.  
I guess history rewrites by the winner is not a new thing.

Oh, among the pages was a recipe for traditional Irish Soda Bread.  
I don't think I'll try it.  
No, the corned beef and cabbage is enough.  
I don't need the bread.  

Hmm... the Atkins diet, which cuts out bread, is sure popular in the Age of Aquarius.  

Coincidence?  
I think not.

Saturday, February 28, 2026

Anna Sultana’s Centrepiece Easter Bread / Anise Seed Easter Bread / No-Rise Easter Bread / Small Easter Nests l A Traditional Family Easter by Margaret Ullrich

Oh, my! February is almost over!
It seems the older I get, the faster the time goes.
I mean… wasn’t Christmas just last week?

Okay, it’s time to get serious about time.
This year Easter is on April fifth.
That’s five weeks… 35 days… 840 hours… 50,400 minutes from now.
You get the picture.
If you’re over 75, like me, it means that in two weeks, oh lucky us, we have to be ready for another holiday.
At least that’s how it will seem.

Let’s take this ‘holiday’ in small steps.
What’s the bare minimum we can get away with without getting major complaints?

I’m not going to get into the Spring Cleaning to do lists.
Nobody notices that, anyway.
But the dinner is a whole other story.

Family holiday dinners change over the years.
Tradition gives way to schedule conflicts, problems in the supply chain, rising prices, dietary restrictions and changing appetites.
And don’t get me started on vegetarians.

Bread, in moderation, is usually a safe holiday item.
A dietary staple, reasonably priced and good as a leftover.
So, let’s start with the fancy Easter bread.

Back in the 1970s we were into baking - breads, buns, you name it.
Like we didn’t trust the local stores’ bakers or the big bread companies anymore.
The sourdough craze during Covid was a blast from the past.
Well, it kept us busy when we were stuck at home.

If the bread baking bug is out of your system, and you don’t want to buy yeast that’s just going to age in place, the No-Rise Easter Bread uses baking powder and isn't kneaded.
Your guests won’t know the difference.
It’ll be our secret.


Hints:


When using a recipe that calls for zest you could place the zest in a separate bowl and add some of the sugar called for in the recipe. Rub the zest into the sugar to release the oils, then continue to follow the recipe.

Check the ‘best before’ date of the yeast. If there's no foam it won’t do anything.

Twist each piece gently but firmly to give the wreaths that braid shape.
You could also divide each rope into two, then twist each pair of ropes together before forming a ring. Pinch the ends to seal.

The uncooked eggs will cook through and be safe to eat.
You could also sprinkle slivered almonds on top before baking.

The breads can be eaten as is, or lightly toasted and served with butter or jam.


About the Anise Seed Easter Bread…
You could also add 1 teaspoon lemon zest or 1/2 teaspoon almond extract.
Golden raisins, about a half cup, would also be a nice addition.

This loaf is open to suggestions when it comes to form.
You could make a wreath and decorate it with 6 dyed uncooked eggs.
Or you could go creative and make a dove, or a cross or even a mermaid.


About the No-Rise Easter Bread…
If the yeast didn’t foam this is perfect for a plan B.

You can also stir in the ‘3 dry and 2 liquid additions’ instead of using the mixer.


About the Sweet Easter Twists…
You could add 1/2 to 1 teaspoon cinnamon or 1 teaspoon orange zest to the dough.

For a holiday look, place a dyed raw egg in the centre of the wreath before the final rising.

 

                     Centrepiece Easter Bread

Makes 3 large or 6 small wreaths

Line 3 cookie sheets with parchment paper.

Have on hand 3 to 6 dyed uncooked eggs

Place in a small bowl
1/4 Cup warm water (about 110° F)
2 1/4 teaspoons active dry yeast
1 teaspoon sugar
                                                               Stir and let sit 5 to 10 minutes, until it foams.

Place in a large bowl
5 Tablespoons unsalted butter, softened
1/2 Cup whole milk, warmed
1/3 Cup sugar
1 teaspoon vanilla
1/2 - 1 teaspoon anise extract (optional)
1/2 teaspoon salt
Blend together until well combined.
Beat in, one at a time
3 large eggs
Stir in the proofed yeast mixture.
Gradually add, 1 cup at a time
3 1/2 - 4 Cups flour
Stir until a soft dough forms.
Place dough on floured surface and knead for 8 to 10 minutes, until it is smooth and elastic.
Place dough in a greased bowl, cover, and let rise in a warm place 1 1/2 - 2 hours, until doubled.
Punch down dough and divide into 6 pieces.
Roll each piece into a rope.
Twist two ropes together and form into a braided circle, pinching ends to seal.
Place on parchment-lined baking sheet.
Insert dyed raw eggs on the surface of each wreath.
Cover and let rise in a warm place 30 to 45 minutes.

Preheat oven to 350° F

Place in a cup
1 large egg
Beat until well blended.

Brush loaves with beaten egg.
Sprinkle with
Sugar sprinkles (nonpareils)
Bake 20 to 25 minutes, until golden.
Let cool and serve.


                                                               Anise Seed Easter Bread

Makes 1 large loaf

Line 1 cookie sheet with parchment paper.

Place in a small bowl
1/4 Cup warm water (about 110°F)
1 Tablespoon sugar
2 1/4 teaspoons active dry yeast
Stir and let sit 5 to 10 minutes, until it foams.

Place in a large bowl
4 Cups flour
1/2 Cup sugar
1/2 teaspoon salt
1 –  2 Tablespoons anise seeds (or fennel seeds)
Whisk together and make a well in the centre.
Add
the yeast mixture
1/2 Cup unsalted butter, melted
3 large eggs
3/4 Cup warm milk
1 teaspoon vanilla
Stir until a soft dough forms.
Place dough on floured surface and knead for 5 to 7 minutes, until it is smooth and elastic. Add more flour if needed.
Place dough in a greased bowl, cover, and let rise in a warm place 1 - 2 hours, until doubled.
Punch down dough. Shape into a braided loaf or your chosen Easter shape.
Place on parchment-lined baking sheet.
Cover and let rise in a warm place 30 to 45 minutes.

Preheat oven to 350° F

Place in a cup
1 large egg
Beat until well blended.

Brush loaves with beaten egg.
Sprinkle with
Sugar sprinkles (nonpareils)
Bake 25 to 30 minutes, until golden.
Let cool.

Glaze (optional)
Place in a small bowl
1 Cup confectioners sugar
1 – 2 Tablespoons milk
1 teaspoon lemon or orange extract
Stir to make a smooth glaze and drizzle over bread.


                     No-Rise Easter Bread

Makes 2 large braided rounds

Line 2 cookie sheets with parchment paper.

Peel zest from an orange, chop, and set aside.

Place in a large bowl
6 Cups flour
1 Tablespoon baking powder
1 teaspoon salt
Whisk together and set aside.

Place in a stand mixer bowl
3/4 Cup shortening
1 1/2 Cups sugar
Beat together until light and fluffy.
Add, one at a time, beating after each addition
3 large eggs
2 egg yolks
Stir in
1 Cup ricotta cheese (or cottage cheese)
1 teaspoon orange extract
the orange zest

On low speed, making 3 dry and 2 liquid additions, add
the flour mixture
1/2 Cup milk
Blend until a soft dough forms.
Dust work surface lightly with flour.
Divide dough in half, then each half into 3 pieces.
Roll each piece into an 16 inch rope.
Braid 3 ropes together, then form into a wreath, tucking the ends under to secure.
Place on parchment lined baking sheet.
Repeat with remaining dough.

Preheat oven to 350° F

Bake 30 to 40 minutes, until golden.
Cool completely.

Place in a small bowl
1 1/2 Cups confectioners sugar
3 Tablespoons milk
1/2 teaspoon orange extract
Stir together to form a smooth glaze.
Drizzle glaze over cooled loaves.
Sprinkle with
Sugar sprinkles (nonpareils)

 

                     Small Easter Nests

Makes 6 small wreaths

Line 2 cookie sheets with parchment paper.

Have on hand 6 dyed uncooked eggs

Peel zest from an orange or lemon, chop, and set aside.


Place in a small bowl
1/4 Cup warm milk (about 110°F)
1 Tablespoon sugar
2 1/4 teaspoons active dry yeast
Stir and let sit 5 to 10 minutes, until it foams.

Place in a large bowl
2 1/2 – 3 Cups flour
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/2 Cup minus 1 Tablespoon sugar
Whisk together.
Add
2 Tablespoons unsalted butter, softened
2 large eggs
1 teaspoon vanilla
1/4 teaspoon almond extract (optional)
the lemon or orange zest
1/4 Cup plain Greek yogurt or sour cream
Stir until a soft dough forms.
Place dough on floured surface and knead for 7 to 8 minutes, until it is smooth and elastic. Add more flour if needed.
Place dough in a greased bowl, cover, and let rise in a warm place 1 1/2 - 2 hours, until doubled.
Punch down dough and divide into 12 pieces.
Roll each piece into a 6 inch rope.
Twist two ropes together and form into a braided circle, pinching ends to seal.
Place on parchment-lined baking sheet.
Place a dyed raw egg in the centre of each wreath.
Cover and let rise in a warm place 30 to 45 minutes.

Preheat oven to 350° F

Place in a cup
1 large egg
Beat until well blended.

Brush loaves with beaten egg.
Sprinkle with
Sugar sprinkles (nonpareils)
Bake 20 to 25 minutes, until golden.
Let cool and serve.


                                                          ~~~

I had originally written the following story when I was one of the co-hosts of the CKUW radio show ‘2000 & Counting’.

In 2007 it was included in 'A/cross sections : new Manitoba writing', an anthology edited by Katharine Bitney and Andris Taskans, and published by the Manitoba Writers Guild. 
It is still in the Winnipeg library system, adult nonfiction section. Check it out. It has lots of stories and poems by many Manitoba writers. (In my profile picture, taken at McNally Robinson
Booksellers, it's in the left top corner.)

Why am I always writing about food?



                                        A Traditional Family Easter

    I made a loaf of soda bread to serve with the corned beef and cabbage on St. Patrick’s Day.  I don’t know why I did it.  I’m Maltese.  My husband is German/Swedish.  Not a single Irish person among our ancestors.  Then, on March nineteenth, I made a lasagna and cream puffs for St. Joseph.  I’d be twenty pounds lighter if I just ignored holidays.

    Yeah, right, like that’ll ever happen.     

    I’m a sucker for holiday traditions.  And, just like Christmas, Lent and Easter are loaded with holiday traditions.  Lent is the time to really clean the house.  Ah, spring cleaning.  Scrub and wax the floors, wash the windows and launder the curtains.  Everything from cellar to attic is glowing.  After being sealed in tighter than a drum all winter who could argue with giving the house a good cleaning?

    Lent is also a time to cut back on the calories.  Let’s be honest.  Who doesn’t want to drop the pounds gained during December?  Between the fasting and the exercise we get from cleaning house, we’re almost able to fit into the clothes we wore before Christmas.  Alleluia!!  Religion can be good for the body as well as the soul.  

    And then there’s Easter, when Christians celebrate Christ’s Resurrection.  We attend church in new outfits.  Little boys in little suits and little girls in fluffy dresses and shiny white patent leather shoes make families look like Hallmark cards.  

    Easter has more customs than the Bunny has eggs.  A popular tradition is to gather together and share a feast.  Over the centuries women have made this a glorious occasion with beautifully decorated eggs, colourful coffee cakes and traditional breads.


    According to tradition, an angel appeared to Mary to tell her that Jesus would arise on Easter.  To show her joy, Mary baked bread to share with her friends.  And to make the loaf more special, she put an egg, a symbol of life, on the top.  Now, I have to admit I don’t know what I’d do if someone told me that a recently deceased relative was rising from the dead.  I guess baking bread is as good a thing to do as any.  The only problem is that over the past two millennia something got lost in translation as that bread recipe went from country to country.

    And that’s when Easter went to hell in a bread basket.


    During my earliest years in Corona, a small town in Queens, New York, Easter was Italian. Palm Sunday was the Day of the Olive.   Small blessed olive branches were offered as tokens of peacemaking. For Easter breakfast we had Colomba di Pasqua. Colomba is bread shaped to look like a dove, the symbol of peace, and covered with almond paste and almonds. An Italian Easter dinner also had traditions. First we had manicotti. That was followed by a roasted whole baby lamb with a mixed salad, sauteed spinach and roasted artichokes. For dessert there were cream tarts, cookies, spumoni, nuts and roasted chestnuts. The adults had coffee.

    Then my parents moved to College Point, another small town in Queens, which had been settled by Irish and German families.  They had their own Easter customs.  Since Easter was not as commercial as Christmas, no one noticed when we followed our own customs.


    When I was seven I had to follow what Ma told me were the Church’s rules during Lent.  I ate kwarezimal, an almond cookie that was topped with honey and chopped pistachio nuts.  Ma said we could eat it during Lent because it didn’t have any fat or eggs.  For Maundy Thursday Ma baked bread in the form of a ring.  Its top was crusted with sesame seeds and pierced with roasted almonds.  Our Easter dinner menu was the same as it had been in Corona.  But, instead of making a Colomba di Pasqua, Ma baked a figolli, a Maltese sweet bread with a marzipan filling.  

    A figolli was harder to make than a colomba.  The dough was rolled about one centimeter thick.  Then Ma cut the dough into pairs of figolla with a figolla cutter.  They looked like a large letter J, but the stick part ended in a fish’s tail.  On one side of a figolla Ma spread jam and marzipan.  Then she covered it with the identical shape, as if she was making a sandwich.  After the figolli had been baked and cooled, they were covered with colored icing and piped royal icing.  Then a decorated Easter egg was placed on top of each figolli.  For the final touch a cardboard woman’s face was inserted into the mound of the J.  

    The odd thing about Ma’s traditional figolli was that it was a mermaid.  I asked Ma why a mermaid and not a dove.  She said, “I don’t know.  It’s our tradition.”  

    Well, you can’t argue with tradition.


    In College Point, as Easter approached, the bakeries filled with cross buns, pretzels, braided almond loaves, Easter cookies and marzipan treats.  There were also large decorated sugar Easter eggs which had a hole in one end.  When we looked into the hole we could see tiny bunny villages.  There were also hot cross buns.  Ma knew about the cross buns.  Since Malta was part of the British Empire, Ma had eaten them in Malta, too.      

    We brought samples of our mothers’ holiday baking to school.  There were lots of pretzels.  Since they didn’t have fat or eggs, we could eat them during Lent without risking eternal damnation.  I liked the braided loaves which had been covered with almond paste.  They reminded me of Colomba di Pasqua.  I brought some kwarezimal to school.  After I explained that the almond cookies didn’t have fat or eggs either, my friends agreed to try them.  


    Easter for my family was a simple celebration.  We went to church, wished everyone a “Happy Easter”, went home and ate our traditional foods.  There weren’t any problems until the year Ma’s brother Charlie married an American girl.  Aunt Liz wanted to learn more about Maltese customs.  Ma invited Charlie and Liz for Easter.  

    Pop told his oldest sister, Aunt Demi, that we had invited Charlie and Liz.  Aunt Demi was worried that our branch of the family was becoming too American.  So, Aunt Demi decided that she would come to dinner to make sure that Ma kept everything kosher.  

    Then Aunt Rita, one of my Sicilian Aunts, heard that we were inviting company for Easter.  Aunt Rita always took things personally.  She was insulted.  Why hadn’t she been invited, too?  Ma invited Aunt Rita, Uncle Tony and their children.  We had enough folding tables and chairs to seat everyone in the yard.  As long as it didn’t rain, Ma thought it would be a nice family dinner.

    Easter Sunday morning the sun was shining and the lamb was roasting on a spit in our yard.  The tables had been set.  Aunt Liz was taking notes and learning recipes.  She had brought a dozen cross buns and a jello mold.  The only thing missing was the centrepiece.  Aunt Demi had told Ma that she would bring a proper figolli.  

    It was the biggest figolli I’d ever seen.  The icing was as thick as my thumb.  While Aunt Demi was placing the Easter egg on her mermaid, Aunt Rita marched in and pulled a Colomba di Pasqua out of her tote bag.  The colomba had a three-foot wingspan.  There was barely room enough for one centrepiece.  

    Fish or fowl, which would Ma use?


    After forty days of fasting and scrubbing, Demi and Rita were lean, clean, Easter tradition machines.  Filled with the holiday spirit, they glared at each other.

    “What the hell is that?”  Aunt Demi spat.
    “It’s a dove, a symbol of peace, you idiot,” Aunt Rita shot back.  
    “It’s Easter.  We don’t need a damn dove.”
    “Throw that fish back in the sea.”  
    “The figolli is part of our tradition.”
    “Since when did Jesus swim with the fishes?”
    Waving a knife, Aunt Demi lunged.  “Give me that bread.  I’ll cut it up for sandwiches.”
    “Over my dead body.”
    “No problem.”

    My Aunt Liz was fascinated by her new in-laws.  She wrote down everything they said.  Maybe she thought the fight was part of our jolly ethnic holiday tradition.  I stayed close to Liz in case she didn’t have sense enough to duck.  

    Ma went back to the kitchen.  She knew she couldn’t reason with her sisters-in-law.  Her plan was to hide in the kitchen until the smoke cleared.  If they killed each other it would leave more food for the others.


    “Maria, get out here,” Aunt Demi yelled.  Ma came out.  The men and the younger children were nowhere in sight.  They were taking a walk to work up an appetite.  Demi and Rita were rolling up their sleeves.  Liz was taking notes.  
    “I went to all this trouble,” Aunt Rita whined.
    Aunt Demi barked, “Tell this idiot we are using the figolli.
    “It took me forever to make this,” Aunt Rita whined again.
    Ma tried to be a good hostess.  “They’re so big.  We could put them on chairs near the table.”

    No luck.  The Aunts wanted her to choose one.
   Aunt Demi announced, “We are having a traditional Maltese Easter dinner.  With a traditional figolli.”
    “Do you think our Blessed Mother baked a mermaid?” Aunt Rita sneered. 
    Demi lunged.  Liz wrote.  


    The lamb was ready.  If this dragged on much longer it would be a lump of coal. 

    Ma sighed, glared at her sisters-in-law and said, “I don’t care if our Blessed Mother made hot dogs and beans. I’m tired of cleaning. I’m tired of baking. I’m tired of the whole damn holiday.

    And I’m tired of bread. A few days ago I gave a figolli to a friend who lives down the street. Yesterday she came over and gave me a loaf of challah. So I have another traditional bread from Mrs. Cohen… Mrs. Cohen. That’s it!!”

    Without saying another word Ma turned and went back to the kitchen.  In a few minutes she returned with the glossy braided challah on the platter. 

    “Our Blessed Mother was a Jew.  She would’ve made a challah.  And that’s what we’re having for Easter.  It’s traditional.  Shut up, sit down and eat.”

    And, so saying, Ma started our traditional Easter Dinner.

Wednesday, January 28, 2026

Soups: Parmesan Pasta l Stracciatella l Stracciatella Soup with Spinach and Pasta l Orzo Spinach l Lentil Orzo l Mediterranean Orzo l Creamy Meatball l Leftover Pork and Potato l Seafood Soup (Zuppa di Pesce)

We were having mild weather - for Winnipeg - during the past months.
But since mid January it has been back to normal.
Translation: COLD.
Salads and quick meals just won’t satisfy.

Nope… it’s time to make pots of soup.
Lots of Soup.

Mediterranean soups have something for every taste, schedule and budget.
Stracciatella Soups are light and can be put together quickly.
The leftover meat soup makes good use of a roast and helps the budget.

The Seafood Soup, also known as Zuppa di Pesce, is a filling meal that is usually made for Christmas Eve, the Feast of the Seven Fishes.
The traditional fish choices include baccalà (salt cod), shrimp, clams, mussels, squid, scallops, smelts or sardines, eel and lobster or crab.
Zuppa di Pesce includes five of the above.
Add another two items from the list and you’re all set for Christmas Eve.

You’d also be ready for a cold night anytime.


Hints:

Parmesan rind has long been used to give extra flavour to soups.
If you buy Parmesan by the piece cut the leftover rind into 3 inch pieces, bag them, and store in the freezer.
You can also use a rind from other hard, aged cheeses like Pecorino Romano or Asiago.
A tablespoonful or two of Worcestershire Sauce could replace the rind.
If you want to make it totally vegan, use a spoonful of nutritional yeast instead of the rind.


About the Parmesan Pasta Soup…
This would also be good with a can of sliced mushrooms added.
This soup’s leftovers thicken. Add broth or milk when you're warming leftovers.


About the Stracciatella Soup…
You could stir in some finely chopped spinach before adding the eggs.

Ma usually served a light soup, such as this, as the first course for a Sunday meal. Ma believed that, if she took the edge off everyone’s appetite, there’d be more leftovers.


About the Orzo Soups…
The orzo will absorb the broth overnight. Just add stock or water when you're warming leftovers.


About the Creamy Meatball Soup …
You can make the meatballs in advance and freeze them. Allow 4 hours, or overnight, to thaw before preparing the soup.

Use any size can of diced tomatoes, depending on how thick you want your soup.
Instead of the spinach, you can garnish the soup with grated Parmesan or fresh parsley or basil.


About the Leftover Pork and Potato Soup…
You can use any leftover meat and any vegetables, fresh, frozen or canned.
If you’d like the soup to be a bit spicier, add sage, thyme or basil to taste.


About the Seafood Soup…
This soup is more like a stew. The traditional Italian recipe has been adapted to make use of fish available in North America. The only rule is to add each seafood at the right time so that nothing overcooks.
Squid needs a long, gentle simmer to turn tender.
Cod cooks more quickly, but holds its shape well in the broth.
Shrimp cooks quickly and goes in last.
Clams and mussels are steamed separately so that you can remove each as soon as it opens.

If you don’t have passata use tomato purée. You can also use tomato paste (which is thicker) or crushed tomatoes or tomato sauce.
The tomato base can be made a day ahead. Refrigerate it in an airtight container, then pour into a Dutch oven and simmer before proceeding with the recipe.

Sautéing shrimp shells in oil gives the oil a stronger seafood flavour.
Don’t worry about it if you don’t want to do it, or have shelled shrimp.

 

Parmesan Pasta Soup

4–5 servings

Finely dice
1 small onion
3 garlic cloves

Place in a dutch oven
2 Tablespoons olive oil
Heat over medium heat.
Add the diced onion.
Sauté until soft, about 5 minutes.
Add
the diced garlic cloves
1 teaspoon thyme
Cook, stirring, for 1 minute.
Add
4 Cups low-sodium vegetable or chicken broth
Bring to a boil and add
1 1/2 Cups small shell pasta
Cook until just tender, about 8 – 10 minutes.
Lower the heat and gently stir in
1 Cup milk or half-and-half
1 Cup grated Parmesan cheese
While it simmers, stir until the cheese melts and the soup turns creamy.
Taste and season with salt and pepper.
Serve hot, garnished with
fresh parsley, chopped
extra Parmesan cheese


                                                               Stracciatella Soup

4–6 servings

Place in a small bowl
3 large eggs
1/4 Cup grated Parmesan cheese
1 Tablespoon fresh parsley, chopped (or 1/2 Tablespoon dried)
A pinch of nutmeg
Whisk together.

Place in a dutch oven
8 Cups chicken or vegetable stock
Bring it to a gentle boil over medium high heat.
Once it boils, reduce the heat to medium low.
While stirring the broth in a circle, slowly pour in the egg mixture.
After all the egg mixture has been added, stop stirring and let it simmer for 1 minute.
Taste and season with salt and pepper.
Serve hot with extra Parmesan cheese.


                                                               Stracciatella Soup with Spinach and Pasta

4–6 servings

Thinly slice
4 scallions (green tops only)

Place in a small bowl
5 large eggs
A pinch of nutmeg
Whisk together.

Place in a dutch oven
8 Cups chicken or vegetable stock
Bring to a boil.
Add
1 Cup ditalini or other tiny shape pasta
Cook until al dente, about 8 – 10 minutes, stirring occasionally.
Lower heat to a gentle simmer.
While stirring the broth in a circle, slowly pour in the egg mixture.
After all the egg mixture has been added, stop stirring and let it simmer for 1 minute.
Add
a pinch of salt
1/8 teaspoon pepper
1 Tablespoon fresh parsley, chopped (or 1/2 Tablespoon dried)
the sliced scallions
5 ounces fresh baby spinach
Simmer just until spinach wilts, about 1 – 2 minutes.
Taste and season with salt and pepper if needed.
Serve hot, garnished with grated Parmesan cheese.


                                                               Orzo Spinach Soup

6  servings

Finely dice
1 small white onion
1 Cup carrots
1 Cup celery
6 garlic cloves

Place in a dutch oven
1 Tablespoon olive oil
Heat over medium high heat.
Add
diced onion, carrots, and celery
Sauté for 5 – 7 minutes, until softened.
Add
diced garlic cloves
1/2 teaspoon crushed red pepper flakes
Cook, stirring, for 2 minutes.
Add
6 to 8 Cups vegetable or chicken stock
1 (14 ounce) can fire-roasted diced tomatoes
1 1/2 Tablespoons Italian seasoning
Bring to a gentle simmer.
Stir in
1 Cup orzo
Cover and simmer, stirring occasionally, until just al dente, about 8 – 10 minutes.
Add in
2 large handfuls fresh baby spinach or kale
Simmer until wilted.
Taste and season with salt and pepper if needed.
Serve hot, garnished with
Grated Parmesan cheese
Chopped fresh basil
 

Lentil Orzo Soup

4-5 servings

Finely dice
1 onion
2 celery stalks
2 carrots
2 garlic cloves

Place in a dutch oven
1 Tablespoon olive oil
Heat over medium high heat.
Add
diced onion, carrots, and celery
Sauté for 5 – 7 minutes, until softened.
Add diced garlic and sauté for 1 minute.
Add
6 Cups vegetable broth
1 (14.5 ounce) can diced tomatoes
1 teaspoon thyme
1 teaspoon oregano
Bring to a gentle simmer.
Stir in
1 Cup red lentils
Cover and simmer, stirring occasionally, 20 minutes.
Stir in
1/2 Cup orzo
Cover and simmer, stirring occasionally, until just al dente, about 8 – 10 minutes.
Taste and season with salt and pepper if needed.
Serve hot, sprinkled with
Chopped fresh parsley


                                                               Mediterranean Orzo Soup

4 servings

Finely chop
1 medium yellow onion
1 large carrot
2 ribs celery
3 garlic cloves
1 1/2 Cups curly kale, stems removed

Quarter
6 ounces cherry tomatoes

Place in a dutch oven
3 Tablespoons olive oil
Heat over medium heat.
Add
diced onion, carrot, and celery.
Sauté for about 5 minutes until soft.
Add diced garlic and sauté for 1 minute.
Add
5 Cups vegetable or chicken stock
3 inches Parmesan rind (optional)
the quartered cherry tomatoes
1 teaspoon oregano
1 teaspoon fresh rosemary, finely chopped (or 1/2 teaspoon dried)
1/4 teaspoon red chili flakes (optional)
Bring to a gentle simmer then stir in
3/4 Cup orzo
Cook for 6 minutes, stirring often to prevent sticking.
Stir in
the chopped kale
Cook until kale is wilted, then discard Parmesan rind.
Add salt and pepper to taste.
If the soup thickens too much add stock or water.
Serve hot with
a drizzle of extra virgin olive oil
Chopped fresh basil
Grated Parmesan cheese

Creamy Meatball Soup

6–8 servings

For the meatballs: place in a bowl
1 pound ground beef (or mix with turkey or chicken or pork)
1/4 Cup breadcrumbs
1/4 Cup grated Parmesan cheese
1 large egg
1 Tablespoon garlic powder
1 teaspoon Italian seasoning
1/4 teaspoon salt
1/4 teaspoon pepper
1/2 Tablespoon dried parsley (optional)
Combine gently and roll into 1 inch balls.
Set aside.

Dice
1 small onion
2 celery stalks

Place in a dutch oven
1 Tablespoon olive oil
Heat over medium heat.
Place a few meatballs in the pot and stir to brown the balls.
Remove balls to a plate and repeat with remaining balls until done.
Set aside.

Place in the same pot
diced onions and celery
Sauté over medium heat until soft, about 4 minutes.
Add
1 can diced tomatoes, undrained
4 Cups chicken or beef broth
1/2 Tablespoon garlic powder
1 teaspoon oregano or basil
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/4 teaspoon pepper
Stir well, then add the browned meatballs. Simmer gently for 15 minutes.
Stir in
1 Cup elbow macaroni or pasta
Simmer until tender, about 8 –1 0 minutes, stirring occasionally.
Lower heat and stir in
1/2 Cup heavy cream
1/2 Cup grated Parmesan
Let it warm through, about 3 minutes.
Add for garnish (optional)
1 Cup fresh spinach, chopped
Stir just until wilted.
Taste and adjust seasonings if needed.


                                                               Leftover Pork and Potato Soup

6–8 servings

Dice
2 onions
4 celery ribs
4 large carrots
4 medium potatoes

Cut into cubes 1/2 inch or smaller
2 Cups leftover pork

Place in a dutch oven
2 Tablespoons olive oil
Heat over medium heat and add
diced onions, celery and carrots
Cook on medium until the onions just start to turn translucent.
Add
1 can mushrooms, undrained
1 Tablespoon garlic powder
Cook until the vegetables start to become soft.
Add
diced potatoes
2/3 Cup barley
2 900 mL containers chicken stock (or 2 quarts homemade)
2 Cups water
the cubed pork
1/2 Cup frozen green beans
1/2 Cup frozen corn
2 teaspoons salt
1 teaspoon pepper
Simmer, cooking until the potatoes are tender, about 20 minutes.
Taste and adjust seasonings if needed.


Seafood Soup

6–8 servings

Place in a bowl of salted cold water
1 pound littleneck clams
Let stand for 30 minutes. Lift out clams. If there is no sand in the bowl, they're ready to be scrubbed and used.
If there is sand, remove the clams, drain and rinse the bowl, fill with fresh salted water, and return clams for 30 minutes. Repeat this process until the water is free of sand.

Peel and devein
8 ounces large shrimp
Place shrimp in a bowl and reserve the shells in another bowl.

Sliced crosswise into 1/2 inch thick rings, leaving the tentacles whole
1 pound squid
Pat dry.

Cut into 2 inch by 1 inch pieces
1 pound skinless cod fillet, 3/4 to 1 inch thick

Scrub and debeard
8 ounces mussels

Finely chop
1/2 medium yellow onion
1 bulb fennel (Save the fronds for garnishing)
4 medium garlic cloves

Place in a dutch oven
1/4 Cup olive oil
Heat over medium high heat.
Add
the shrimp shells
Cook, stirring frequently, until shells begin to brown.
Using a slotted spoon remove and discard shells.
Add
Chopped onion and fennel
1/4 teaspoon salt
Stirring occasionally, cook until beginning to brown, 7 - 9 minutes.
Stir in
Chopped garlic
1 teaspoon oregano
1/8 to 1/4 teaspoon red pepper flakes
Cook about 1 minute.
Stir in
3/4 cup white wine
1/8 teaspoon turmeric
1/4 teaspoon paprika
Cook until wine is reduced by about half, about 5 minutes.
Stir in
1 8 ounce bottle clam juice
1 24.5 ounce bottle tomato passata
Stirring occasionally, simmer until reduced by about half, about 20 minutes.
Reduce heat to low, place prepared squid in pot, cover, and gently simmer for 15 minutes.

While the squid is cooking, place in a 12 inch skillet
1 Tablespoon olive oil
1/4 Cup dry white wine
the cleaned littleneck clams
Bring to a boil, covered, over high heat. Steam until clams just open, 5 to 8 minutes. Remove clams to a plate.
Add to the skillet
the prepared mussels
Cover and cook over high heat until mussels have opened, 2 to 4 minutes. Remove to same plate.

Place prepared cod in tomato sauce in dutch oven, cover, and simmer 8 minutes.
Add and push the peeled shrimp into the sauce. Cook, covered, 2 minutes.
Remove from heat.
add the opened clams and mussels and the cooking broth to the tomato sauce and simmer to warm through.
Stir in
1/4 Cup chopped flat-leaf parsley
Season with salt and pepper to taste.

Divide seafood among bowls, making sure each contains a bit of everything.
Ladle broth over seafood and drizzle each with olive oil.
Garnish with fennel fronds, if desired, and serve with crusty bread.

It could also be served over linguine.