Anna Sultana’s East Coast Seafood Chowder & Bacon Cauliflower Chowder / Full Worm Moon

On Tuesday we were thrilled to be walking on snow-free concrete.

We were sure that Spring was just a few days away.

Manitoba Merv had promised us an early Spring.

He couldn't lie to his fellow citizens.

Yeah, well, this is Manitoba, and it’s never wise to put away the snow shovels until the middle of May.

On Wednesday afternoon it started snowing, the heavy wet type, and by Thursday morning we had received another 10 to 13 cm of fresh snow.

We were not amused.

I packed away the light, Spring type recipes and made a pot of chowder.

As a kid growing up in Queens, New York I loved Manhattan Clam Chowder.

I had first tried it in the restaurant at Jones Beach.

It was served with a small bag of little round crackers and was much better than the soup one got from the Campbell soup can.

I have no idea why either item was called a chowder.

Soup is a rather light weight thing, made by adding meat and/or vegetables to a liquid, such as water or stock. 

A chowder is a creamy soup that can be almost as thick as a stew.

Like a soup, chowder can be seafood or vegetable, such as corn or potato chowder.

But, unlike a soup, the liquid is thickened with potatoes, cornstarch or flour.

Manhattan Clam Chowder is definitely not thickened.

False advertising, for sure.

About Monday’s full moon, the Full Worm Moon...

Not one of the nicest names for a full moon, but it got stuck with that name because the ground is thawing and earthworm casts are appearing, attracting robins.

U. S. tribes called it the Full Crow Moon, since the cawing of crows announced the end of winter, while other folks, mostly in the east, called it the Full Sap Moon, since it was time to start tapping maple trees. 

In Manitoba natives knew they’d still have snow and called it the Full Crust Moon, since the snow thawed during the day and froze at night, becoming crusted.

The European settlers called it the Lenten Moon, since it usually happened after Lent had begun, and it was considered the last full Moon of winter.

On March 9 and on April 7 we’ll be having very large full moons, known as super moons, which will appear about 14% larger and 30% brighter than a normal full moon.

April's supermoon will be the bigger of the two, since the moon will be at its closest point to Earth.

Hopefully the snow will be gone by then.

Hints:

Starchy russet potatoes release the starch into the chowder and thicken it. 

Red potatoes and Yukon golds aren’t as starchy, but will do if that’s what you have. 

About the fish… a mix of salmon, halibut and cod makes a nice blend.

If you only have one or two of them, that’s fine.

Just don’t use something like sole - it will disappear into the creamy base.

Relax about the amount of seafood you're adding. The recipe is just an estimate. 

A chowder is just a type of soup, not a cake.

If you want to get a bit fancy you could replace some of the fish with lobster tails.

Add with the shrimp, clams and mussels.

About the cauliflower chowder…

You can leave the bacon out and replace it with 4 Tablespoons olive oil.

                        East Coast Seafood Chowder 

Dice 

1/2 Cup celery

1/2 Cup onions

3/4 Cup potatoes

Place in a large pot

1 Tablespoon butter

Melt butter over low heat.

Add the diced celery and onions.

Sauté for about 5 minutes, or until onions start to brown.

Stir in to form a thin paste

2 teaspoons cornstarch

Stir in

1/2 Cup heavy cream

2 Cups milk

Simmer over low heat for 5 minutes.

Add

1 teaspoon dried thyme

1/2 teaspoon salt 

1/4 teaspoon pepper  

the diced potatoes

Cook until the potatoes are almost tender.

While the potatoes are cooking cut about 12 ounces of fish into spoon-sized chunks. (see hints)

Place in another large pot 

2 Tablespoons butter

Melt butter over medium heat.

Add the fish chunks.

Cook until fish is opaque and flakes easily with a fork.

Add

6 shrimp

1/4 C shelled clams 

box of mussels in wine, undrained

Once the mussels have opened (discard any that did not open), transfer the seafood into the chowder base.

Simmer 3 minutes.

Ladle into bowls.

Place dill and a dab of butter on each serving (optional).

Serve with crusty rolls or bread.

                        Bacon Cauliflower Chowder

Chop 

1 medium yellow onion

2 medium carrots, peeled

2 stalks celery

Cut into 1" pieces

4 slices bacon

Mince

2 cloves garlic

Place in a large pot

the bacon pieces

Cook over medium heat, until crispy.

Remove the bacon and drain all but 3 tablespoons of fat from the large pot.

Add to the large pot the onion, carrots, and celery.

Season with salt and pepper.

Cook the vegetables until soft, about 5 minutes. 

Add the minced garlic and cook 1 minute. 

Add

2 Tablespoons flour

Stir in to form a thin paste, and cook about 2 minutes more. 

Add 

the chopped cauliflower

1 teaspoon dried thyme

4 Cups vegetable broth

1 Cup whole milk

1/2 Cup heavy cream

Bring to a boil.

Reduce heat and simmer until the cauliflower is tender, about 15 minutes. 

Season with salt and pepper.

Garnish with the cooked bacon pieces before serving.

Ladle into bowls and serve with crusty rolls or bread.

Anna Sultana’s Baked Penne with Cauliflower, The Strawberry Moon and The Summer Solstice

Sometimes a meal’s menu is based on cravings.

You know… you’re in the mood to have something.

No logical reason, just in the mood to eat it… Now.

And sometimes a menu is based on what’s in season.

Something, usually a vegetable, is available in large quantities and at a great price.

Saving a bit of grocery money is a very logical reason.

It’s always good to set a bit aside for upcoming holiday meals.

But sometimes logical reason gets trumped by illogical reason.

Case in point… Cauliflower was selling for a good price.

So, impressed by the price, I picked up one.

Then illogical reason came into play.

Paul reminded me that he doesn’t like cauliflower.

He loves broccoli, hates cauliflower.

Go figure.

Okay… Ma had faced a few meal planning problems in her day.

One of her solutions was to hide the problem ingredient, usually in a soup or stew. 

I mean, who pokes through all the bits in a tasty bowl of soup or plate of stew.

Another trick was to hide the problem in a baked favourite, such as Imqarrun il-forn.

Ma's Imqarrun il-forn is basically Timpana without the crust.

When Ma was in a rush, she would skip adding the crust.

And, if she was trying to use something, she would add it.

Back to the cauliflower…

It can be roasted, boiled, fried, steamed, pickled or eaten raw. 

The florets should be broken into similar-sized pieces so they cook evenly. 

Eight minutes of steaming, or five minutes of boiling, gives you soft florets. 

Try not to disturb them when they are cooking as stirring can break the florets into uneven pieces.

The leaves are edible, but usually people toss them.

Cauliflower is very bland, so have fun with your favourite spices.

Low carbohydrate dieters can use cauliflower as a substitute for potatoes or rice.

Cauliflower can also be sliced a quarter-inch, such as a steak, lightly coated with olive oil, and broiled; or fried in a hot oiled heavy iron pan.

Serve with a good cheese sauce and your vegetarian friends will love you.

Cauliflower trivia…

Like certain legumes, including chickpeas, it can be turned into a flour for making pizza or biscuits.

Cauliflower has distinct fractal dimension, about 2.8.

One of the fractal properties of cauliflower is that every branch, or "module", is similar to the entire cauliflower. The angle between "modules," as they become more distant from the center, is 360 degrees divided by the golden ratio.

I know, who comes up with these things?

Hints:

This recipe can be made hours, even a day, in advance.

About the macaroni…

Usually Ma used penne, rigatoni or ziti.

In a pinch, elbow.

You want something that can survive baking. 

Spaghetti would form a brick.

Not a good thing.

If you like a stronger tomato flavour, add a can of tomato paste.

You can also add a large can of plum tomatoes, undrained.

The cheese / bread crumb topping is optional.

If you like it and have time, do it.

If you don't, then don't.

                        Baked Penne with Cauliflower

Grease a 9 x 13 inch pan or two 8 inch square pans

In a dutch oven pour

3 Tablespoons olive oil

Add

2 onions, chopped

1 pound cauliflower florets 

Fry until lightly browned.

Remove the vegetables from the pot.

Add

1/2 pound ground beef

1/2 pound ground pork

Cook for about 3 minutes.

Add

3 Tablespoons tomato paste

1 Cup chicken or beef stock or wine

Stir in the cooked vegetables.

Simmer for 15 minutes.

Season with

salt and pepper to taste.

While the sauce is being prepared, in a large pot place

4 quarts water

salt to taste

Bring to a boil.

Add

1 pound penne 

Cook, stirring frequently, about 10 minutes.

You want it to be a bit firm, al dente. 

Drain the pasta well and stir it into the sauce in the dutch oven.

Beat

4 large eggs

Mix them into the sauced pasta.

Add 

1/4 Cup grated Parmesan or Romano cheese

Stir everything together.

Pour into the prepared pan or pans.

Combine in a small bowl

1/4 Cup grated Parmesan or Romano cheese

1/4 Cup dry bread crumbs

Sprinkle over the top of the pasta.

At this point you can refrigerate for several hours, covered.

  

Preheat oven to 350º        

Place the pan, uncovered, in the preheated oven.

Bake the 9 x 13 inch pan for about 45 minutes; 

the two 8 inch square pans for about 30 minutes.

You want to see a few burnt spots.

Then you know it's perfect, a la Maltese style.

About the sky this week, thanks to the folks at The Farmers' Almanac…

June 20: Full Moon at 7:02AM - The visible Moon is fully illuminated by direct sunlight. See a video about June's Full Strawberry Moon. The Summer Solstice arrives at 6:34PM EDT. This is when the Sun reaches its farthest point north of the celestial equator. Summer is officially here.

June 21: The Sun rises and sets the slowest right before and after a solstice. The quickest sunrises and sunsets are during the equinoxes. This holds true in both the Northern and Southern hemispheres.

June 27: Last Quarter Moon at 2:19PM. In this phase, the Moon appears as a half Moon. One-half of the Moon is illuminated by direct sunlight while the illuminated part is decreasing, heading toward the New Moon phase. 

Tonight’s sunset is the latest in 2016.

Anna Sultana's Kawlata #2 - Vegetable Soup with Meat, Maltese Style

Maltese are not, for the most part, vegetarians.

And we sometimes get bored with a recipe.

Even with good recipes.

Same old, same old.

On Tuesday I posted Ma's recipe for Vegetable Soup with Meat.

Of course she had another recipe for Kawlata.

Pick the recipe according to what you have on hand.

Or according to what was on sale.

                        Kawlata #2

Chop 

1 1/2 pounds pumpkin

1 small cabbage

1 small caulifower

3 turnips

2 onions

4 tomatoes

Place in a large pot

1 Tablespoon butter

Brown

1 1/2 pounds pork, cubed

Add

the chopped vegetables

4 potatoes, quartered

1 Tablespoon tomato paste

1 Tablespoon lemon juice

3 Cups water

Bring to a boil.

Lower heat, then let simmer 60 minutes.

Serve with crusty bread.

Anna Sultana's Kawlata - Vegetable Soup with Meat, Maltese Style

Some people are vegetarians.

And some people are not.

Some people are satisfied with a meatless soup.

And some people are not.

I posted the recipe for Ma's Brodu taċ-Ċanga a while ago.

It's a recipe for soup that uses beef.

But just like with Ma's Minestra or vegetable soup, Ma had another recipe.

This recipe uses cubed pork or sliced Maltese sausages.

Or any sausages you prefer.

Or were on sale.

Hint:

For this amount of vegetables, the recipe calls for 

2 pounds pork or 1 pound Italian sausages - cut into bite-sized pieces.

If you prefer more or less meat, no problem.

It's a fine line between a soup and a stew.

                        Kawlata

Chop and place in a large pot

2 zucchini

4 potatoes

2 onions

about a pound of pumpkin

1 small cabbage

1 small caulifower

2 turnips

2 tomatoes

2 carrots

2 pounds pork, cubed or 1 pound Italian sausages, sliced 

Add 

3 Cups water

1 teaspoon tomato paste

salt, pepper, oregano or basil - suit yourself

Bring to a boil, then let simmer 30 minutes.

Add 

2 tablespoons lard or butter or oil - your choice

1/2 pound small pasta

Simmer until the pasta is done, about 7 minutes.

Serve with Parmesan or Romano cheese.

Crusty bread also goes well with the soup.

Anna Sultana's Minestra tal-Haxix #2 - Vegetable Soup, Maltese Style

In 2010 I compared  the recipes for two zucchini favourites: Carmela Soprano's Googootz Giambotta and Ma's Minestra tal-Haxix.

Well, if you're tired of making those two vegetable soups, here's another of Ma's recipes.

It's similar to her Minestra or vegetable soup.

It just has a slight variation in ingredients.

 

Soup is a dish that allows for a cook's creativity.

Or for what's in season or on sale.

                        Minestra tal-Ħaxix #2

Chop and place in a large pot

2 onions

4 potatoes

4 tomatoes

600 g (about 1 1/2 pounds) pumpkin

1 small cabbage

1 small caulifower

3 turnips

Add 

3/4 litre (about 3 Cups) water

Bring to a boil, then let simmer 30 minutes.

Add 

2 Tablespoons lard or butter or oil - your choice

1 Tablespoon tomato paste

salt and pepper to taste

1/2 pound small pasta

Simmer until the pasta is done, about 7 minutes.

Serve with grated Parmesan or Romano cheese.

Anna Sultana's Soppa ta' L-Armla - Widow's Soup, Maltese Style

Hot drinks like Mulled Wine and Mulled Apple Cider are all well and good.

But, to paraphrase a rather famous saying, man does not live by hot drinks alone.

It's getting cold… it's time to make and serve some soups.

Sometimes Maltese recipes have some rather strange names.

I mean, cookies named Dead Man's Bones?

And then there's Soppa ta' L-Armla - Widow's Soup.

Not exactly the most cheerful name for a bowl of soup.

I notice Campbell's and Lipton's don't have it in their repertoire.

And what does a husband think when he sits down to a bowl of this?

Should he wonder if it's a hint, like she's hoping and planning her future?  

Should he eat it?

Well, yes he should, if he's Maltese.

And give thanks that his wife knows how to make a good homemade soup.

Hint:

If you can't find ġbejniet in your local store, substitute individual soft cheese balls.

Or more ricotta or cottage cheese.

                        Soppa ta' L-Armla 

Chop into roughly the same spoon-sized chunks

2 carrots

2 onions

1 medium cabbage

1 head of lettuce

1 endive (or a second head of lettuce)

1 cauliflower

1 celery stalk

In a large pot place

1/4 Cup margarine, butter or oil

Sauté the vegetables.

Add

2 litres of water

400 g peas

Simmer until the vegetables are done.

Slowly add, one by one

4 eggs

4 ġbejniet (fresh Maltese cheeselets)

4 Tablespoons ricotta

Simmer until the eggs have cooked.  

When serving, first place an egg, a ġbejniet and a scoop of ricotta in each bowl.

Then ladle on the vegetables.

Season with salt and pepper.

Anna Sultana's Tuna Pie, Maltese Style

About a week ago I posted Ma's recipe for Baked Tunny.

Looks like it's become a popular recipe.

It's one of the month's top posts.

That's great to see.

That post has some information on big tunny and little tunny. 

Yes, there is such a thing as little tunny.

I'm not making some kind of gangster joke.

Yes, I miss Carmela and the boys, too.

Fresh tunny, big and little, isn't easy to find in some areas.

Like around here in Winnipeg.

This being the bald prairies and all.

But, if you can get tunny here's another recipe.

And if you can't, so it goes.

You can precook a few thick slices of fish.

As this recipe calls for cooked fish, it's also a nice way to use leftovers.

Hints:

If you're substituting canned tuna, do the math so you get about 500 grams 

(a little more than a pound).

If you've just caught a fresh little tunny, don't forget that they should be bled 

and iced soon after being caught.

After the fresh little tunny has been prepared, slice and fry the fish steaks in oil 

and remove the bones.

Then continue with the recipe.

Aubergine is another name for eggplant.

Some folks find eggplant has a bitter taste.

Slice the eggplant about 1/2 inch thick and place the slices on a paper towel.

Sprinkle the slices with salt and let sit 15 minutes.

Then wipe off the salted surface.

It helps.

The cauliflower should be cleaned and cut into florets, hopefully about the same size.

That way they'll cook evenly.

                        Tuna Pie

Serves 4

In a large saucepan fry

1 large onion, diced

Add

4 large tomatoes, quartered

2 green peppers, chopped

1 aubergine, sliced and prepared (see above)

1 small cauliflower, prepared

Add

500 g fresh tuna which had been cooked or canned

100 g green olives

1/2 teaspoon pepper

1/2 teaspoon salt

grease 9 inch pie pan          

preheat oven to 400º           

Line the bottom and sides of the greased dish wish

with 3/4 of 400 g flaky or puff pastry

Spoon fish vegetable mixture into the pie dish.

Cover the mixture with the remaining 1/4 of the flaky or puff pastry.

Brush with 

milk or beaten egg

Prick all over with a fork.

Bake 30 minutes or until golden brown.

Tuna pie is best hot.

But it's also handy for a picnic.

Anna Sultana's Fritturi tal-Pastard - Cauliflower Fritters / Cauliflower Casserole, Maltese Style

June...
time for graduations, weddings, Father's Day.

Time to feed the family.

Big time.

Yeah, I hear you.

You just get finished paying off Christmas, and now....

Okay, don't panic.

You've lived through June before.

You'll do it again.

Families in Malta face the same June crunch.

And Maltese sure do like to eat.

Maltese mothers live by two rules:

If you can fill their stomachs, that's half the battle.

If you can sneak in some vegetables, that's even better.

Cauliflower is usually cheap, thanks to being underappreciated.

There aren't any pics of kids chewing on cauliflower, as they would on a cob of corn.

Cauliflower is a low-calorie vegetable.

Weight Watchers mash boiled cauliflower and serve as mashed potatoes.

Well, they were low-calorie, until topped with butter and sour cream.

Nothing's fool proof.

There's a pattern here:

Cauliflower... Vegetable... Cheap... Low-calorie

Need I say more.

In June in Malta it's party time.

There's a hint of Fritturi tal-Pastard in the air.

That's Maltese for Cauliflower Fritters.

Let the festivities begin! 

                        Cauliflower Fritters

Bring a large pot of water to a boil.

Add 

1/2 teaspoon salt

1 cauliflower

Simmer 15 minutes.

Place the cauliflower in a colander in the sink to drain.

After it's cooled, separate into flowerets.

Discard the tougher stalk ends and the main stalk.

Mash the cauliflower flowerets in a large bowl.

Add

2 large eggs, beaten

1/4 Cup chopped fresh parsley (1/8 Cup dried)

1 crushed garlic clove

1/2 teaspoon salt (more or less)

1/2 teaspoon pepper (more or less)

Shape the cauliflower mixture into 1 1/2-inch patties, 1/2 inch thick.

Place the patties on a cookie sheet. 

Let sit about 15 minutes.

In a large heavy skillet pour

vegetable oil to a 1/2-inch depth

Heat over medium heat until a bread cube will sizzle in the oil.

(If it's not hot enough, they won't fry crisply.)

Leaving enough space between them, fry the patties, 

turning once, about 10 minutes.

Place the patties on paper towels to drain.

They can be kept warm in a 200º oven while you fry the rest.

The extra nice thing about Cauliflower Fritters is that the leftovers 

can be served as a main course.

An EASY main course.

In an oiled 9 x 14 pan I'd place the leftover fritters,

cover them with tomato sauce, 

then top with grated (or sliced) mozzarella cheese.

Sprinkle with Parmesan (or Romano) cheese for a little extra oomph.

Pop in the oven at 350º for about 30 minutes.

Make a salad and dinner is served.

Looks like I've slaved away two days.

It's my secret.

Of course, it was Ma's secret first.

Anna Sultana's Soppa tal Kirxa - Tripe Soup, Maltese Style

On Saturday I posted Carmela Soprano's Italian Tuna Salad.  

Something she must have dished up for many Lenten meals.

She probably did use imported Italian tuna packed in olive oil.

Well, whoopee for her.

Not everybody has Carmela's 'resources'.

Back to eating off the hump...  Our waists will be slimmer and our shelves will be clearer.

We knew it was Lent when Ma dished up more soups.

In Malta the Catholic Church ruled Sundays, holy days and meals.

Lent was a time of fast and abstinence. 

No fooling around.

You walked around for a whole day with ashes on your forehead.

Lousy meals were a part of the season.

Live with it. 

If you're unfamiliar with those terms, abstinence meant no meat on Wednesday and Friday during Lent.

Actually that was a bit of a joke.

We didn't eat that much meat.

Hey, heard of the Mediterranean Diet? 

But the one-two punch of Lent was fasting.

That meant two half meals and no snacks.

And that one main meal better not make up for what you were missing.

Your Lenten meals were being recorded in a celestial diet record book more strictly than anything Weight Watchers would expect you to do to lose 5 pounds. 

Fasting.

What is it about religion and food?

Okay... Ma wanted to follow the Church's rules.

Ma wanted to avoid living with a hungry family.

Especially a hungry Pop.

He didn't cope well with a rumbling belly.

Catholic Moms knew a few diet tricks.

Fill the belly with water.

Soup.

Weight Watchers didn't invent that trick.

This is a Maltese Lent staple.

Filling and not something you'd find in a fancy restaurant.

The priests and Pop approved.

So did the budget.

That's just our way.

                        

                        Soppa tal Kirxa 

Simmer for about 2 hours                                                      

800 g (about 2 pounds) tripe, cut into small pieces
2 litres of water

Add    

1 cauliflower, finely chopped

1 turnip, finely chopped                                 

1 cabbage, finely chopped

2 tomatoes, chopped                                      

400 g pumpkin

4 large potatoes, finely chopped                    

1 onion, finely chopped  

Bring to the boil. 

Reduce heat and simmer until the vegetables are done.  

Season with salt and pepper.

Serve with grated Parmesan cheese.

Zucchini: Carmela Soprano's stew Googootz Giambotta and Anna Sultana's Minestra tal-Haxix (soup, Maltese Style)

Some vegetables, like potatoes, translate easily.

Carmela would call it a patate.  

Ma would call it a patata.  

Not very different from the English potato. 

Even A. J. could translate it easily.

Then there's the zucchini.  

Pity the zucchini.  If you've always just walked by them in the market, it's a summer squash of bushy growth with smooth cylindrical dark green fruits, which are also called zucchini.  They have a mild flavor and cook well in soups and stews.

Okay... Carmela would call it a googootz and, while she lived in Malta, Ma would call it a marrow.

I don't know why.

In Carmela's Entertaining with The Sopranos, there's a simple recipe for zucchini stew, Googootz Giambotta in the Adult Birthday Parties chapter.  Personally, I don't see it.  Maybe she dished it up for Uncle Junior.  After he shot Tony.

Chop 2 medium onions and cook them in some olive oil.

Finely chop a garlic clove, add it to the onion and fry another minute.

Add

6 plum tomatoes, chopped

4 zucchini, trimmed - cut into bite-sized pieces

2 potatoes, peeled - cut into bite-sized pieces

salt and pepper 

Cover and simmer 30 minutes, stirring occasionally.

Add water if it seems dry and before serving stir in

2 tablespoons chopped fresh basil

If you've never cooked zucchini, 'trimmed' means cut off the tips.  They are a bit nasty.  

Zucchini was a staple in Ma's kitchen.  I don't  know when she wised up, but she called them zucchini for as long as I can remember.  Pop grew them and Ma cooked them.  

When they were young and small - the zucchini - Ma would cook them in soups and stews.  When it got later in the season and Pop found a zucchini the size of a baseball bat, Ma would slice it in half, simmer it, scoop out the middle, mix it with crumbs and eggs, stuff the shell and bake it.

You never find the baseball bat sized one in the market.

Here's one of Ma's recipes Minestra tal-Haxix.
Wonderful, it uses some of the Halloween pumpkin!!

Chop and place in a large pot

2 zucchini

4 potatoes

2 onions

about a pound of pumpkin

1 small cabbage

1 small caulifower

2 turnips

2 tomatoes

2 carrots

-----

Add 

3 cups water

1 teaspoon tomato paste

salt, pepper, oregano or basil - suit yourself

Bring to a boil, then let simmer 30 minutes

-----

Add 

2 tablespoons lard or butter or oil - your choice

1/2 pound small pasta

Simmer until the pasta is done

Serve with Parmesan or Romano cheese

If you've just won the lottery and want some meat in there, 

leave out the pasta and add with the vegetables

2 pounds pork - cut into bite-sized pieces 

1 pound Italian sausages - cut into bite-sized pieces

or less if the winnings weren't that great

Would I make Googootz Giambotta again?  

No, it seems to be missing a lot.  A whole lot.

I sure wouldn't serve it to a birthday boy or girl.

Well, maybe if he'd shot my huband.

Would I make Minestra tal-Haxix?

Absolutely.

It's a meal in itself.

Another recipe down.  Thirty-eight more to go.