Anna Sultana's Minestrone with Garlic Croutons and Garden Soup / Christmases Past by Margaret Ullrich

Minestrone

In only a couple of days it will be 2022.
Another year is coming to a close, with its good and bad.
True, Covid-19 and its newest variant - with the potential for more variants - haven’t gone away.
But we have vaccines, we’re doing all we can to prevent the spread, and it will eventually run its course, just like other pandemics have.
So, on to 2022! We can do it!!

Along with our health, Covid-19 has been affecting the supply chains of just about everything.
When we couldn’t find old favourites, or even staples, on the shelves in our grocer’s, we’ve had to make some changes in our usual menu plans.
There’s been talk of food prices going up even more in 2022.

Sounds like it’s time to pull out the soup recipes.
Soup give us a chance to use up every bit of our vegetables, along with getting us extra value from the occasional roast's bone.
It’s like getting two meals for the price of one, or two half-price meals.
Either way you prefer to look at soup, it’s a budget’s best friend.


Italians and Maltese have been making minestrone for centuries.
As a result there are many variations, such as:

Rice and Pea Minestrone
Substitute chicken broth for beef broth.

Add 20 ounces frozen peas
.
Substitute 1/2 Cup white rice for the macaroni.

Minestrone con Carne
When you’re cooking the onion add
1/2 pound ground beef
Cook until the meat is browned.

Another good soup is Escarole and Little Meatballs Soup - Minestra.

If you’d like to serve a soup as a first course with a non-Italian meal then the Garden Soup recipe would be perfect.

Wishing you health, peace, joy and everything good in 2022!


Hints:

About the Minestrone…
If you have a bit more time and a bag of dried chick peas you can use them.
Place in a bowl
1 Cup dried chick peas
enough cold water to cover by 2 inches
Let stand for 4 hours, or overnight, in the refrigerator.
If the chick peas appear above water level, add more water.

Drain the chick peas and place them in a pot with fresh water to cover by 1/2 inch.
Over low heat, bring to a simmer.
Cover the pot and simmer about 1 hour.
If the chick peas appear above water level, add more water.
When the chick peas are soft, drain and use as canned.


About the Garden Soup…
Don’t have a ham bone? You can use beef, lamb or poultry bones.
In a rush? Store-bought broth would do nicely.

If you prefer, you can leave out the salt pork or bacon and use 3 Tablespoons oil.
Instead of fresh spinach you can use thawed frozen spinach.
If you have fresh, use a few leaves each of mint, marjoram, basil, rosemary, and thyme.
Instead of the green or wax beans you can substitute fresh shell beans or 1/2 Cup dried navy beans prepared as you would the chick peas.



                                                               Minestrone and Garlic Croutons

Serves 8 to 12

Chop

1 medium yellow onion

Slice
1 Cup celery
1 Cup carrots
1 Cup zucchini

Finely shred
2 Cups cabbage

Drain and rinse
1 (1 pound 4 ounce) can chick peas


Place in a Dutch oven

2 Tablespoons olive oil
1 Tablespoon garlic powder
1/4 Cup dried parsley
the chopped onion
Cook, stirring frequently, over low heat, until the onion is soft but not brown.

Add
4 Cups beef broth
1 28 oz. can crushed tomatoes
the sliced celery and carrots
the shredded cabbage
the prepared chick peas
1 teaspoon dried basil, sage or oregano
Cover and bring to a boil.
Reduce heat and simmer 30 minutes, or until vegetables are tender.
Add
1 Cup elbow macaroni
the sliced zucchini
Bring to a boil. Reduce heat and simmer 12 minutes or until the macaroni is tender.
Season with salt and pepper
Ladle into soup bowls.
Top with
the garlic croutons
grated Parmesan or Romano cheese

Some crusty bread and a salad would round out the meal nicely.

Garlic Croutons

Cut into cubes
8 to 12 thick slices Italian bread
Place on a cookie sheet
Toast in a 300ºF oven until the cubes are dry but not browned.
Place in a skillet
1/4 Cup olive oil
1 teaspoon garlic powder
the toasted cubes
Heat and stir until they are golden brown.


                                                               Garden Soup

4 to 6 servings

Chop
2 onions
3 stalks celery
1/2 pound fresh spinach or other greens

Peel and dice
2 carrots

Put in a large stockpot
1 ham bone
Cover with water, and simmer over medium heat for 1 hour.

While the bone is simmering, place in a frying pan
1/4 Cup chopped salt pork or bacon
Cook over low heat until the fat is released.
Add
1 clove garlic, minced
several sprigs parsley
the chopped onions and celery
the diced carrots
Sauté lightly, without browning.

Remove the ham bone from the pot and skim any fat from the broth.
Cut off any bits of meat from the ham bone and return them to the pot.
Add the onion and carrot mixture to the broth and simmer for 1 hour.
Add
1 Cup green or wax beans, frozen or fresh
1 teaspoon basil
1 teaspoon rosemary
1 teaspoon thyme
1/2 teaspoon mint
1/2 teaspoon marjoram
4 large tomatoes, peeled and diced
the prepared spinach or other greens
1 Cup pureed winter squash or pumpkin
Simmer for 30 minutes.
Season with
salt and pepper
Taste and adjust seasoning
Serve hot, with a sprinkling of grated cheese.

                                                            ~~~

This was a holiday piece I wrote a few years ago for the CKUW radio show ‘2000 & Counting’ when we decided to chat about past Christmases… both good and bad.

I wish you all a very happy holiday season full of peace, health, joy and love.
And, of course, favourite foods.
Let's not forget television specials and Christmas music.

For those who don't know the story, the Christmas carol Silent Night was written in the nineteenth century because of a problem.      
In a small Austrian church the organ was broken and couldn't be repaired in time for the Christmas Eve Mass. So, in a couple of hours, Joseph Mohr and Franz Gruber created a simple song that could be played on the guitar.
It was called the song from heaven.
      
On Christmas Eve in 1914, the German soldiers singing Silent Night brought a touch of humanity to World War l. The British soldiers responded with another carol, The First Noel. For a few hours, peace returned, thanks to music.


The first year I was on the CKUW radio show 2000 & Counting, Older and Wiser I prerecorded our two holiday shows. That year the holidays occurred on Tuesday, the day we usually broadcasted, and we wanted to be home.
I taped each person telling a story and their favourite Christmas carol recording.
The segments filled the two hours easily.

Normally we did our shows live and, as our listeners knew, we did make mistakes. 
With prerecording, we were able to edit them. We sounded pretty good.

      
Maybe that's the problem with modern life.
We hear recordings and see shows that have had dozens of retakes.
Sometimes they show the bloopers.
It's pretty funny to see that even big stars make mistakes.
But, most of the time, all we only see a smoothly running show where everyone always says the right thing, the dinner is cooked to perfection and all problems are resolved with everybody hugging each other within a half an hour.

It can leave one feeling like he's been cheated or that he should try harder.


The first Christmas was a stinker.  Being in a big city with no available rooms is not fun. Add to that Mary was about to have her first baby in a barn with just a carpenter there to help.
I don't think any Christmas has ever gone according to plan.
And maybe Christmas just isn't supposed to be perfect.


A first Christmas away from all that's familiar can be rough.
Our first married Christmas was a big change.
Paul and I are originally from New York City.  Tons of people.
I came from a huge family - a first generation immigrant family.
My parents and their siblings couldn't get enough of each other.     
But, there we were in 1972, all alone in Surrey, British Columbia.
The two of us in a basement apartment watching Perry Como's Christmas Special.
It was something from home for us.
This was in the days before Skype. We hadn't seen our relatives for six months.    
When we watched Perry Como, it was good to know our folks were watching it, too.
For an hour, we were all together.
Then we went to bed for a long winter's nap.
     
The next morning we awoke hearing our puppy happily yelping and splashing in water.
No, he wasn't in a basin or a tub.
     
Surrey in those days was very rural. 
There were open drainage ditches running along the lengths of the residential blocks. The ditch in front of our house had gotten plugged. The rain had soaked our lawn and was seeping through three walls of our apartment. We were rapidly being flooded.

We piled things onto our bed.
The folks upstairs helped us carry everything else into their apartment.
Within a half hour water covered about two feet of our first Christmas tree.
We were safe and dry upstairs, sharing a cup of coffee.
Then we heard our phone ringing.
My folks had said they would call on Christmas Day.
If we didn't answer they phone, they would worry.
This was in the days before cell phones.
Our only phone was on the table in our apartment.
Our flooded apartment.

We braved the icy water and the risk of electrocution to answer the phone.
We wished my folks a Merry Christmas.
Keeping our teeth from chattering, we made small talk.
No mention of of our apartment suddenly becoming a wading pool.
What would've been the point of worrying them?


Living in British Columbia is just a memory.   
Perry Como's Christmas Specials are just a memory.
My parents, also, are just a memory.
But thanks to memories, we can enjoy a Christmas from the past.


During the holidays people often feel a bit down.
If this is your first Christmas after a major loss or change, be gentle with yourself.
Forget 'the rules'. Do what will make it easier for you.

It won't be perfect.
So what?
It will be real… another Christmas memory.

Anna Sultana’s Pea Soup, Maltese Style, and the Partial Solar Eclipse

We’ve been having very cold weather for the past six weeks here in Manitoba.

Last winter was a bit warmer, but we had a lot more snow - 103 cm compared to this year’s 41 cm.

Well, you win some, you lose some.

Whether we’re dealing with cold or snow, winter is the time for making soup.

Ah, hurrah for soup… 

it’s warming, economical and makes use of all those bits and pieces we usually have sitting in our fridges.

Next week we’’ll be celebrating Festival du Voyageur, Western Canada's biggest winter festival.

There’ll be lots to see and do, as well as lots of good French Canadian food to enjoy.

One of the items definitely on the menu will be Pea Soup.

Pea soup is a recipe that’s enjoyed in Malta, too. 

I’ve already posted the recipe for 

Anna Sultana’s Broth & Split Pea Soup, Maltese Style

Another similar soup is 

Anna Sultana’s  Lentil Soup, Maltese Style 

This post also has links for other soup recipes.

Hints:

After the bone has cooled a bit, scoop out the softened marrow and stir it into the liquid. This adds a bit more nutrition and flavour to the broth.

                        Pea Soup 

Serves 6

Place in a large pot

A ham bone with some meat on it

1 1/2 Cups split peas, cleaned

6 to 8 Cups cold water

You want to have enough water to cover the bone and peas.

Bring to a boil and skim off foam.

Add

3 Cups raw potatoes, diced

1 medium onion, chopped

1 carrot, chopped

1 teaspoon dried thyme

1 teaspoon salt

1/2 teaspoon dried basil

1/2 teaspoon dried oregano

1/4 teaspoon pepper

Reduce heat, simmer 3 hours. Check that the peas are tender.

Remove the bone from the soup and place it on a cutting board.

Cut off the bits of meat and chop the larger pieces.

Stir in

the chopped ham

1 Tablespoon dried parsley

Test flavour and adjust seasoning.

Heat and serve with bread.

Garlic toast adds a nice touch.

About the sky, thanks to the folks at The Farmers' Almanac…

February 9 - Look to the southeast at 4:30 a.m. local time, where you’ll see a wide crescent Moon, about one-quarter of the way up from the horizon. Sitting about 4° to the Moon’s lower right is Mars, which rises more than 4 1/2 hours ahead of the Sun. Mars crosses over from the constellation Scorpius, the Scorpion into Ophiuchus, the Serpent Holder on Feb. 7th, then passes a little more than 5° north of its rival, the ruddy star Antares, on the 10th.

In mid-February, first-magnitude Mars is 143 million miles from the Earth. But it will appear to more than quadruple in size when it makes its closest approach to Earth in nearly 15 years at the end of July!

February 11 - Look to the southeast before the Sun comes up to see the small waning crescent Moon very close to the planet Saturn.

The Moon at apogee at 9:24 a.m., it’s farthest point from Earth in its orbit.

As dawn breaks, look low in the southeast sky where you’ll see the Moon, now a delicately thin crescent, hovering a couple of degrees directly above the planet Saturn. The ringed planet rises in the southeast before dawn, about 40 minutes before first light early in the month, and 1 3/4 hours before dawn breaks by month’s end. Don’t confuse Saturn with either Mars or the bright star Antares, both nearly 30° to its west (upper right) in the morning twilight.

February 15 - New Moon at 4:05 p.m. At this stage, the Moon is not illuminated by direct sunlight and is completely invisible to the naked eye. At the time of the New Moon, 4:05 p.m., there is a partial solar eclipse that comes with it. But unless you plan on doing some extensive traveling, don’t count on viewing it. This eclipse most definitely favours Antarctica, as most of that icy continent will be swept by the Moon’s penumbral shadow. Parts of Chile, Argentina, Paraguay, and the southernmost tip of Brazil will also see the Moon partially occult the Sun’s disk.

Anna Sultana’s Mushroom and Ham Quiche

Quiche was popular in the 1970s.

Then there was that ‘Real men don’t eat quiche’ phase.

Yeah, well, quiche is perfect for when you have houseguests and want to enjoy their company while a brunch is baking in the oven.

Some folks invite friends and family to visit for Easter.

Need I say more?

Holidays were always a busy time for my Ma.

Like most immigrant families we loved to gather together for holidays.

Having an all-in-one dish brunch in the oven was a help for Ma while she was taking care of last minute details.

Ma's Torta ta' l-Irkotta is an even easier brunch dish to make.

This healthier Pizza Rustica is also a favourite for a light meal.

Carmela’s Pizza Rustica (Pizza Gaina and/or Easter Pie) is a cheesecake in a latticed crust which is very similar, but more of a dinner meal.

Although you could serve it, in smaller slices, earlier in the day.

Whatever...  Enjoy the brunch and your company!!

Hints:

If the dough mixture seems dry, add a spoon or two of ice water.

If you want to save time, you can use frozen puff pastry, thawed.

If you're trying to cut the fat you can use my pie crust recipe.  

Have leftover cooked ham?

You can use a cup or two of chopped leftover cooked ham.
Don't let a 'too small for a serving' bit go to waste.

The wrapped leftover pie can be refrigerated for up to 3 days. 

                        Mushroom & Ham Quiche

Serves 6 - 8

Place in a large bowl

2 Cups flour

Make a well and add

2 Eggs

Work the mixture with your fingers or a fork.

Add

1/2 Cup butter, at room temperature

grated zest of 1 lemon

1/4 Cup red wine (or fruit juice or water)

1/4 teaspoon salt

Blend together.  

Form the dough into a ball.  

Let it rest, covered, for 1 hour.

Grease and flour a 9 inch pie plate.

Roll out the dough and line the pan.

The Filling

Heat in a large skillet over medium heat

1 teaspoon oil 

Add

1/2 pound fresh mushrooms, sliced

Cook, stirring, 6 minutes or until mushrooms are lightly browned.

Remove from heat.  Stir in

1 ham steak (about 1/2 pound), cubed

Spoon into the crust lined pie plate.

Top with

8 ounces mozzarella, chopped

1/2 Cup freshly grated Romano or Parmesan cheese

Place the oven rack in the middle of the oven.

Preheat oven to 425º F

Beat together in a large bowl

1 Tablespoon finely chopped fresh thyme leaves (1 teaspoon dried)

5 eggs

2/3 Cup milk

1/2 teaspoon freshly ground pepper

Pour mixture over the ingredients in the pie plate.

Bake 15 minutes. 

Reduce oven temperature to 350ºF.

Bake 30 minutes or until knife inserted in centre comes out clean.
Let stand 10 minutes before cutting to serve.

Carmela Soprano's Prosciutto Bread / Glazing Bread Loaves

Along with homemade soups, fresh breads are great during a long cold winter.

Homemade breads are hot, soft and smell delicious.

And the heat from the oven doesn’t hurt.

It’s better than a portable heater, so making bread is a two-fer.

Sometimes I had trouble believing what I read in Entertaining with the Sopranos.

I can picture Carmela baking bread.

Sure, there are all sorts of ‘buy and bake’ loaves available.

But I really can’t picture Carmela making bread.

Those long nails… Can you imagine trying to get all the sticky goop out of those nails?

Hint:

According to the book, Carmela uses a food processor to make her Prosciutto Bread.

You can use different ground meats, even fake if you're worried about cholesterol.  

Just add some spices, like garlic powder and oregano.

Carmela doesn’t mention glazing the loaves, but it’s something I like to do.

it’s very easy and makes the loaves look pretty.

Combine

1 egg

1 tablespoon water

Beat together and brush loaves before baking.

I prefer Ma's Sausage Bread, Maltese Style.

It’s simpler and healthier.

And, yes, she glazed it.

                        Prosciutto Bread

Grease a large baking pan.         

Combine in small bowl

5 teaspoons yeast

1 1/2 Cups warm water (100º to 110º F)       

Let stand 5 minutes.

Stir until the yeast is dissolved.

While the yeast mixture is standing:

Combine in large mixer bowl (or a food processor)

3 1/2 Cups flour

1 teaspoon salt

1 teaspoon pepper

Add 

the yeast mixture

3 tablespoons olive oil

Mix or process until the dough comes together into a ball.

Remove the dough from the bowl.

Knead 1 minute, until smooth but still moist.

If it feels sticky add more flour.

Oil a large bowl.

Place the dough in the bowl and rotate it so all the surfaces get oiled.

Cover with plastic wrap and let rise in a warm place until doubled, about 1 hour.

While the bread is rising dice

4 ounces prosciutto, or other ham

4 ounces soppressata, or other salami

2 ounces sharp provolone

Place the dough on a lightly floured surface.

Flatten it with your hands to remove air bubbles.

Scatter the diced meat and cheese over half of the bread dough.

Fold the uncovered dough over the meat and cheese.

Flatten and fold it a few times to distribute the meat and cheese.

Cut the dough in half.

Roll each piece into a 10-inch loaf with your hands.

Place the loaves several inches apart on the prepared pan.

Cover and let rise until doubled, about 1 hour.

Preheat oven to 375º  

With a sharp knife, cut 3 diagonal slashes in each loaf.

Glaze, if you wish.

Bake 30 minutes, until golden brown.

Slide the loaves onto a wire rack and cool slightly.

Serve warm.

Carmela Soprano's Pasta E Ceci (Pasta and Chickpeas) l Preparing Dried Beans

Along with the bills January, in the northern hemisphere, means winter.

And it’s been a brutally cold winter this year.

This is a soup recipe, great for making one feel warm and toasty.

Soup is also good for the budget.

The extra water is supposed to fill you up.

Back in 2010 I posted about a few recipes in Entertaining with The Sopranos.

About is the operative word - no ingredients, amounts and instructions.

Pasta E Ceci is one of those recipes.

I really thought instructions weren’t necessary, as I grew up with it as a staple.

Not everyone was so lucky.

Chickpeas were a basic food in Ma’s house.

Maybe your Ma called them something else.

Other names for chickpeas are garbanzo bean, ceci bean, channa and Bengal gram.

Chickpeas have a high protein content, and are very good for you.

Back to budget cooking…

Pancetta is Italian bacon made of pork belly meat that is salt cured and peppery.

Most grocers don’t even carry the stuff.  Don’t panic.

Some nice thick sliced bacon or ham would do.  Add some pepper.

Carmela's recipe calls for 8 ounces spaghetti, broken into bite-sized pieces.  

Don't go to any trouble.  Elbow macaroni will do just fine.

About the fresh flat-leaf parsley leaves…

If we’re talking budget, dried is cheaper, and you probably have some already.

Dried has a more concentrated flavour, so 1/8 Cup should do it.

Suit yourself.

If you're trying to use dried chickpeas, they'll need a little prep work in advance.

One Cup of dried chickpeas will give you an amount equal to about 3 Cups canned.

Dried chickpeas need to cook 1–2 hours, but will turn to mush when cooked longer. 

If soaked for 12–24 hours, cooking time can be shortened by around 30 minutes.

Preparing Dried Beans

Place in a bowl

1 Cup dried chickpeas

enough cold water to cover by 2 inches

Let stand for 4 hours, or overnight, in the refrigerator.

If the beans appear above water level, add more water.

Drain the beans and place them in a pot with fresh water to cover by 1/2 inch.

Over low heat, bring to a simmer.

Cover the pot and simmer about 1/2 to 2 hours (see above).

If the beans appear above water level, add more water.

When the beans are soft, drain and use as canned.

                        Pasta E Ceci

Serves 4 to 6

In a dutch oven pour

1/4 Cup olive oil

Add

2 ounces pancetta, chopped

Cook, stirring over medium heat, for 10 minutes.

You want the meat to be lightly browned.

Add

3 garlic cloves, finely chopped

pinch of crushed red pepper

Cook, stirring, until the garlic is golden.

Add

2  16-ounce cans of chickpeas, drained

2 Cups canned tomatoes, chopped, with the liquid

1/4 Cup fresh flat-leaf parsley leaves, chopped

Bring to a simmer and cook about 15 minutes. 

Crush some of the chickpeas with the back of a spoon.

Add

5 Cups water

Bring to a simmer.

Add

8 ounces spaghetti, broken into bite-sized pieces

Cook, stirring occasionally, until the pasta is al dente.

Add some water if the pasta starts sticking to the bottom of the pot.

You want something resembling chunky soup.

Let cool slightly before serving.

Serve with

coarsely ground black pepper (or not)

Want another bean recipe?

Try Carmela Soprano's Pasta Fagioli - Pasta and Beans.

Carmela Soprano's Neapolitan Crostini l Melon and Prosciutto

Not all of Carmela's recipes are as difficult as Carmela Soprano's Baci Cake.

Here are two real quickies from the book Entertaining with the Sopranos.

Actually they barely qualify as recipes.

But they published the Crostini - with a picture - in the Welcome to the Family chapter.

The Melon and Prosciutto - also with a picture -  was in the Dinner for Twelve chapter.

Go figure.

I originally posted about them, without actual measurements, in March 2010.

But some people like measurements when trying something new.

And they are handy recipes to have before the holiday season.

These recipes are perfect as appetizers, or as something light to snack on while watching the ball drop in Times Square on New Year's Eve.

I mean, after a certain age, how many potato chips can one eat?

Hint:

I left the anchovies out of Paul's Crostini.  He doesn't like them.

                        Neapolitan Crostini

Serves 6

In a medium bowl place

1/2 teaspoon dried oregano

salt and pepper to taste

Cut in half through the core

2 ripe medium tomatoes (Carmela used New Jersey beefsteaks)

Squeeze gently to extract the seeds and juice.

Trim away the core.

Chop the tomatoes into 1/2-inch pieces and toss them in the seasoned oregano.

Preheat the oven to 450º

Oil a large baking pan

Arrange on the baking pan

12 thin slices Italian bread (Carmela used semolina bread)

Toast the bread 5 minutes.

Remove the pan from the oven, but keep the oven turned ON.

Cover each slice of bread with 1 slice and 1 anchovy each from

8 ounces fresh mozzarella

12 anchovy fillets

Spoon a few of the seasoned tomato pieces over each slice of bread.

Drizzle each slice with a few drops of

Extra virgin olive oil

Return the pan to the oven and bake 5 to 7 minutes.

When the cheese is slightly melted, remove from the oven and serve.

                        Melon and Prosciutto

Serves 12 (2 melon slices each serving)

Cut into 12 slices each

2 large cantaloupes or small honeydews, chilled

Scoop out the seeds and cut off the skin.

Place 2 slices on each serving plate.

Drape 2 or 3 paper-thin slices from

12 ounces Italian Prosciutto (Carmela used Prosciutto di Parma)

over each pair of melon slices.

Sprinkle with 

freshly ground pepper 

Garnish with 

a lemon or lime wedge on each plate

And let the countdown begin!

Carmela Soprano's Baked Ziti In Bianco and Bechamel Sauce

In February, 2010 I compared Carmela Soprano's Baked Ziti In Bianco to Ma's Timpana.

Well, I compared the importance of Baked Ziti to Timpana.

Only a fool would think they are just plates of pasta.

We're talking about respect must be paid, iconic pasta dinners.

Christmas is coming.

If you haven't decided on a main course, this could be it.

Or, at the very least, a first course.

As I had written in 2010:

For anyone who ever saw the series, Carmela's Ziti was the stuff of legend. In the first season, cute little A.J. said his first televised cuss word because he was worried he wasn't going to get his mother's Ziti. 

Oh, how quickly they grow up. 

Whenever there was a problem, out came the Ziti. 

This past summer I gave the recipe for Ma's Timpana.

I'm very overdue in doing the same for Baked Ziti In Bianco.

For that I'm sorry.  Here it is.

Enjoy!!

Hints:

The Bechamel Sauce can be made a day in advance.

Al dente means firm to the bite.

You want the pasta a little under done so it will not get mushy when it's baked.

For the ziti you'll need a total of:

6 ounces fresh mozzarella, cut into 1/2 -inch cubes

6 ounces smoked mozzarella, cut into 1/2 -inch cubes

4 ounces thick-sliced boiled ham, cut into narrow strips

1/2 Cup grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese (Parmesan)

                              Bechamel Sauce 

Makes 4 Cups

Heat in a medium saucepan

4 Cups milk

Heat until small bubbles form around the edges.

Melt in a large saucepan over medium-low heat

4 Tablespoons (1/2 stick) unsalted butter

Add, stirring well

1/4 Cup flour

Cook, stirring, 2 minutes.

Very slowly, stirring constantly, add the milk to the flour/butter mixture.

Don't panic!  It'll look lumpy, but it will smooth out.

After all the milk has been added, Add

pinch of grated nutmeg

salt and WHITE pepper to taste

Raise the heat to medium and simmer 2 minutes.

Remove from heat.

Pour into a bowl and place a piece of plastic wrap on the surface.

This prevents a skin from forming.

The sauce can be chilled and stored up to 24 hours in advance.

                              Baked Ziti In Bianco

Serves 8 to 12

In a large pot, bring at least 4 quarts of water to a boil.

Add

1 pound ziti

Salt to taste

Cook, stirring frequently, until the ziti is al dente.

Drain the ziti and put it in a large bowl. 

Toss ziti with 

4 Tablespoons (1/2 stick) unsalted butter

Preheat the oven to 350°F.

Grease an 11 1/2 x 8 1/2 x 2-inch baking dish.

Spoon a thin layer of Bechamel Sauce into the baking dish. 

* Make a layer of 1/3 of the ziti in the baking dish. 

Sprinkle with

1/3 of the fresh and smoked mozzarella and ham 

2 Tablespoons grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese (Parmesan)

Repeat from * two more times.

Spoon the remaining Bechamel Sauce into the baking dish.  

Sprinkle with

the remaining grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese (Parmesan)

The ziti can be refrigerated for several hours at this point. 

Remove from the refrigerator about 30 minutes before baking.

       

Bake the ziti, uncovered, for 40 minutes. 

The sauce should be bubbling and the top lightly browned.

Let stand for 10 minutes before serving.

Want a little variety?

Try Carmela's Baked Ziti with Tiny Meatballs or 

Vegetarian Baked Ziti.

Carmela Soprano's Spaghetti Pie

Back in 2010, in that second post, I also compared a second recipe.

Like I said, I was a beginner and, in addition to being snide, I wasn't pacing myself.

Okay… now I know better - one recipe per post.

Less risk of getting lost in all the directions, too.

Carmela's recipe for Spaghetti Pie in Entertaining with The Sopranos is a little pricey.

Like she's trying to prove they have the bucks.

When Ma made Spaghetti Pie it was either Friday or time to pay the heating oil bill.

Ma's recipe is also safer for folks watching their cholesterol intake and blood pressure.

Carmela said, You will not need salt, because the meats and cheeses are salty.

You've been warned.

Hints:

Carmela's recipe calls for spaghetti or bucatini.

Personally I can't see the bucatini, which is thick pasta.

Ma would've used vermicelli.

Use what you have.

Just adjust the boiling time for the pasta.

                        Spaghetti Pie

Serves 8

In a large pot place

4 quarts water

salt to taste

Bring to a boil.

Add

1 pound spaghetti or bucatini

Cook, stirring frequently, until the pasta is al dente.

Drain the pasta well and place it in a large bowl.

In a large bowl, lightly beat

8 large eggs

1/2 cup of Pecorino Romano or Parmigiano-Reggiano

freshly ground pepper to taste

Add

the cooked pasta

2 ounces sliced Genoa salami or soppressata, chopped

2 ounces sliced prosciutto or boiled ham, chopped

Toss well.

Heat in 10-inch non-stick skillet over medium heat

2 Tablespoons olive oil

Pour half of the pasta mixture into the pan.

Scatter over the pasta

4 ounces of provolone, chopped

Pour the remaining pasta mixture into the pan.

Turn the heat to medium low.

Cover the pan and cook 5 minutes.

Slide a spatula under the pie and lift it gently under the edges 

so the uncooked eggs can slide underneath.

Cover the pan and cook 10 minutes.

The eggs should be almost set and the bottom lightly browned.

Meanwhile, preheat the broiler.

Place the skillet under the broiler to brown the top (about 3 to 5 minutes).

Slide a spatula under the pie to loosen it.

Tilt the pan near a serving platter and slip the pie onto the platter.

Cut into wedges.

Serve hot or at room temperature.

Carmela Soprano's Ravioli alla Bucco / Anna Sultana's Ravjul and Ravjuletti

Sometimes recipes, like Melfi's Minestrone, are quick.

And sometimes recipes aren't.

Artie's Ravioli alla Bucco, in his chapter Mia Cucina in The Sopranos Family Cookbook, 

is one that takes a bit of time.

Ravioli, like pyrogies, is basically dumplings.

Making things like ravioli can be a sociable event.

Our parish, which has a Polish base, has pyrogy making days.

Especially before Christmas and Easter.

It's a fundraiser for the parish and a nice way for old friends to spend a day.

Artie's ravioli recipe has a bit of meat in it.

My Ma's ravjul is meatless, and easier to make.

Especially if you don't have a pasta machine.

She often served it as a first course.

No, we weren't vegetarians.

It was just Ma's way of cutting our appetites.

Want an appetizer?

Small, deep-fried ravjuletti are popular in Malta as an appetizer.

They're a little different from the regular ravjul.

But a handy recipe to know when holidays are coming up.

Like Easter…

Hints:

If the dough tears, dust it with flour, fold it and pass it through the machine again.

After you've placed the ravioli on the baking sheets, you can freeze them until firm,

then place them in a heavy duty plastic bag, seal and freeze them up to one month.

Do not thaw before cooking.

When cooking the ravioli, just put in enough to fit comfortably.

Don't crowd or they'll stick together, even worse than spaghetti would.

And prepare the sauce the day ahead, either

Carmela Sopranos' Tomato Sauce  or

Carmela Sopranos' Marinara Sauce, double recipe

                        Ravioli alla Bucco

Serves 8

Dough 

In a food processor or large bowl of a mixer place

3 large eggs, beaten

1/4 Cup cool water

1 teaspoon olive oil

Gradually add

2 1/2 Cups flour

Mix until the dough forms a moist, but not sticky, ball.

Add more flour if needed.

Place the dough on a lightly floured surface.

Knead for 1 minute, or until it is firm and smooth.

Shape the dough into a ball, cover with the bowl, and let rest 30 minutes.

FILLING

Mix in a large bowl

16 ounces whole-milk ricotta

4 ounces mozzarella, very finely chopped or coarsely grated

4 ounces prosciutto, very finely chopped

1 large egg

1/2 Cup grated Parmesan cheese 

2 Tablespoons chopped flat-leaf parsley

pepper and salt to taste

Cover and refrigerate.

To Make Ravioli

Line 3 large baking sheets with towels.

Dust towels with flour.

Cut the dough into 8 pieces.

Put 7 of the pieces back under the bowl.

Shape 1 piece of dough into a flat disk.

Lightly dust the rollers of a pasta machine with flour.

Set the rollers at the widest opening.

Pass the dough through the machine.

Set the rollers to the next setting.

Pass the dough through the machine.

Continue setting and passing until the dough is very thin.

Lay the strip of dough on a lightly floured surface.

Mark the lengthwise centre so you don't overfill it.

About 1 inch from a short end place the filling, in a straight row,

a teaspoonful at a time, about 1 inch apart.

Lightly brush around the mounds of filling with cool water.

Turn the unfilled half of the dough over the filled half, covering the filling.

After moistening your fingers, press out any air bubbles and seal the edges.

Cut between each ravioli with a pastry cutter or a sharp knife.

Separate the ravioli and press the edges with a fork to seal each one.

Place the ravioli in a single layer on the prepared baking sheets.

Cover the ravioli with a towel and refrigerate until needed, up to 3 hours.

They need to be turned a few times so they won't stick to the towels.

Repeat with the remaining dough and filling.

While the ravioli are cooking reheat over low heat either

Carmela Sopranos' Tomato Sauce  or

Carmela Sopranos' Marinara Sauce, double recipe

Pour some of the sauce into a large heated serving bowl.

To Cook Ravioli

In a large pot place

4 quarts water

Bring to a boil, then lower the heat to a gentle boil.

Add

salt to taste

ravioli 

Cook the ravioli, stirring occasionally, for 2 to 5 minutes, 

depending on their thickness and if they were frozen.

With a slotted spoon scoop the ravioli out of the pot and drain well.

Place the ravioli in the prepared heated serving bowl.

Pour on some more sauce.

Sprinkle with

1 Cup Parmesan cheese

Serve immediately.

Would I make Ravioli alla Bucco again?

No, I'd rather make Ma's Ravjul.

Especially if it's a holiday meal.

It just wouldn't be a family meal without Ma's recipe.

I just wish we could sit and make them together again. 

One recipe down.  Thirty-four more to go. 

Carmela Soprano's Pizza Rustica recipe / Pizza Gaina / Italian Easter Pie with Ricotta and Meat

It's Louis Riel Day in Manitoba.

Family Day in Ontario, Alberta and Saskatchewan.

We're also in the Church season of Lent.

That means Easter is coming.

That means it's time to make traditional recipes.

Remember: 

For the traditionalist, holy day does not mean holiday.

Some readers told me that I hadn't given a proper recipe for Pizza Rustica.

It's an Easter recipe in Entertaining with The Sopranos.  

Pizza Rustica (Pizza Gaina and/or Easter Pie) is a cheesecake in a latticed crust.

Warn the kids that it isn't the pizza they're expecting.

It has a lattice top crust like a cherry pie. 

But this is more of a savoury pie than a sweet pie.

it's more like a quiche.

Carmela's Pizza Rustica is not great if you have a cholesterol problem.  

No, the cholesterol  and calories don't disappear if you eat this on Easter. 

If you're trying to cut the fat, if not the cheese, go to my pie crust recipe.  

That'll make for a lighter bottom crust.  It'll be our secret. 

In an aside, Carmela added:  You can substitute other meats or cheese as you prefer, like capicola (gobagool), cooked sausage, mild pepperoni, provolone, etc.  Some people add sliced hard-cooked eggs too.

Also…

If the dough mixture seems dry, add a spoon or two of ice water.

The wrapped pie can be refrigerated for up to 3 days. 

                        Pizza Rustica

Serves 8 - 10

The Dough

In a large mixer bowl combine

4 Cups flour

1 1/2 teaspoon salt

Add

1/2 Cup solid vegetable shortening

1 stick (8 Tablespoons) unsalted butter, cut into pieces

Pulse until the mixture resembles large crumbs.

Add

2 large eggs, beaten

Pulse until the mixture forms a soft dough.

Don't over mix, or the dough will be tough.

Shape 1/3 of the dough into a disk.

Shape the remaining dough into another disk.

Wrap each disk in plastic wrap.

Chill 1 hour, or overnight.

The Filling

Beat together in a large bowl

2 pounds ricotta

4 large eggs, lightly beaten

1 Cup freshly grated Pecorino Romano

1/2 teaspoon freshly ground pepper

Stir in

8 ounces fresh mozzarella, chopped

4 ounces sliced boiled ham, chopped

4 ounces prosciutto, chopped

4 ounces sliced soppressata ( or other salami), chopped

2 Tablespoons chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley

Place the oven rack in the middle of the oven.

Preheat the oven to 375º

Butter a 9 x 3-inch springform pan.

Roll out the larger piece of dough to a 15-inch circle.

Drape the dough over the rolling pin.

Carry the rolling pin to over the prepared pan.

Fit the dough into the pan.

Flatten any wrinkles.

Scrape the filling into the pan.

Roll out the smaller piece of dough to a 9 1/2-inch circle.

Cut the dough into 3/4 inch wide strips.

Lay half the strips 1 inch apart over the filling.

Give the pie a quarter turn and place the remaining strips on top.

Press the ends of the strips against the dough on the sides of the pan firmly to seal.

Trim the excess dough.

Beat together

1 egg yolk

1 Tablespoon water

Brush the lattice top with the egg mixture.

Bake for 75 minutes.

The pie should be golden brown on top and the filling should puff up.

Cool the pie in the pan on a wire rack 10 minutes.

Run a knife around the edge of the pan and remove the sides of the pan.

Let the pie cool completely.

serve at room temperature or lightly chilled.

Would I make Carmela's Pizza Rustica again?

Nope.

When I say pizza, Paul expects a pizza.

And we prefer Ma's Torta ta' l-Irkotta.

This healthier Pizza Rustica is also a favorite.